I was going to go to Espinosa de Los Monteros but the walk today was tough on my feet. It’s only 7-8 more but it’s a good break and I wanted to spend a day in Espinosa anyway.

A drizzly day started late at 0900 from the Hospedaría Foramonranos. Comfortable bed allowed me to sleep in. Had a bite to eat at Cafeteria Royal Plaza.

Right out of town following the GPX track as there is little to no signage, I was routed to little used farm tracks – unmaintained, overgrown grass, mud pits and beautiful scenery. It has rained overnight and was sprinkling in the morning. The tall grasses were heavy with rain and they took every opportunity to transfer that water to me – waist high. It felt like I was walking through a river. Of the first section, until 3B met up with 3A, there was no signage and about 10km were like this.

I started out in the weeds and mud tenderly picking my path as to stay dry with a sure footing. That lasted about 5km when I realized I was making only 3km an hour and I was getting really tired. I must say however that this was some of the most scenic and beautiful parts of this Camino so far and I thoroughly enjoyed the treck – until I got to a part where I should have brought a machete to take out the overgrowth. It stopped being fun at that point.

Once I met up with 3A, all of the camino markings came back to life – a really well marked trail.

I got to a place called Hoz de Mena. It reminded me of my friend and his story about family coming from “Mena”. Hoz sounds like house – probably doesn’t mean that. But anyway, I thought of my friend and imagined his family coming from Hoz.

Arriving in a tiny hamlet – well, can’t even call it that – a group of houses with a medieval church called Arceo, I found myself on a well maintained trail that took me along a river and what I imagine an old Roman road. This trail is 2.5km between Arceo and Irús. It’s basically a trail that takes you through a vibrant emerald canopy tunnel while constantly being serenaded by rushing water and birds. Then the waterfalls appeared. What an amazing little gem of a community trail.

Rolling into Bercedo – cumulating a 750m climb out of the Mena Valley, was very disappointing. There was supposed to be a cafe/bar there and I had already run through my supply of food and was rather hungry and tired with sore feet. The bar/cafe was shuttered and by the looks of it has been for some time. The one redeeming attribute is that there was a comfortable chair which I sat in for a while. Then onwards.

About 7km shy of my destination I see multiple conflicting arrows – so I stopped looked harder and one set indicated an albergue. There were no documented albergues here in Villasante!!! So I called the number listed. Isabel the proprietor answered her mobile and was apologetic for not being able to attend to me as she was in Bilbao. We talked briefly and then she gave me the combination to the lockbox and instructions to get into the albergue. The albergue is called Albergue Casa Luisa Villasante. It has five/six beds, a kitchen, bathroom, TV and other amenities. It is very clean and it is run on a donativo basis.

Villasante also has at least one cafe (Pulpería Mariscera) a farmacia, and grocery store (fruits).

I had planned on staying two nights in Espinosa as there are some things I want to see here. An albergue 7km from Espinosa will allow me to take a leisurely walk there in the morning and go see the sights, and then check into the albergue there. A win-win.

I walked today about 15km with wet feet. I would have gone through one pair per km if I had changed enough times. As it ended up, I changed in Bercedo. This was a bit problematic. The only two bad thing is that the blister I had has now been peeled. So I have to stop off at the pharmacy to get some gasa (I’m currently using a paper napkin and tape).

Today was a good but tiring day. There could be some improvements on trail condition and signage, but a really nice surprise to see a new albergue that’s worth stopping at.

Note that in the guide books, going through Villasana is marked as days 2B and 3B. Below are some observations – subjective of course regarding what I will call 2/3B – this is from the point the route deviates in Santecilla and rejoins 3A in Ordejón de Mena. Perhaps about 18km.

This 18km had to be some of the most scenic of the route to date – granted it’s only one day of 20 but it really is beautiful.

There was ONE marker somewhere in between. There wasn’t even a marker in Santecilla and I took the wrong way, only to have to back track. A GPX track is imperative on this section.

The trails were overgrown – to the point of being impassible. I had to back track and hop through barbed wire and go through a pasture. With the rain the previous night, this made going through this section slow, laborious, wet and muddy.

With the holiday, Villasana was closed – the hotels, and many bars/cafes were closed, they opened late this morning, etc. The 2/3B route is certainly worthy of visiting, but you must be prepared with food and sleeping accommodations are very limited, and while very accommodating, they fall outside of the typical pilgrim budget.

So far – even with the challenges, this was a worthy route with beautiful scenery and the chance to meet good people willing to help out.

The guide I have all need to be updated to reflect the challenges and changes:

Buen Camino

CaminOlvidado – iOS app and website PDF

The Wise Pilgrim – Olvidado

Guide to the Camino Olvidado – JOSE ANTONIO CUÑARRO