Day 11 : Etapa 12A – Cistierna -> Boñar

Yesterday I took the train from Cervera de Pisuerga to Cistierna due to a lack of lodging for the next three days between the two. So, starting today from Cistierna…

Today was 28ish KM. I am impressed at the quality and quantity of signage in this area. Not only are there yellow arrows pointing the way, there are yellow crosses telling you which ways not to go and reminder arrows to just to let you know you’re still on the right track – even though there weren’t any side trails.

In addition to the yellow arrows, there are full-blown signs explaining the Camino, maps demonstrating different options, how far, how much elevation gain, etc.

You will also find anecdotal stories along 12A of how the original pilgrims and settlers lived along the route.

Another thing I noticed, is that the villages take pride in being on the Camino and make sure their trails are maintained, signage is clear and welcoming/send-off signage is there.

I also share these posts to a Camino group and many have said that when I get to León, things will improve as far as infrastructure. So far that is the case.

Let me be clear though – this is my fourth Camino and while I don’t walk it for a pilgrimage to see Saint James’ tomb, I do do it for personal pilgrimages of sorts. I don’t expect every Camino to go smoothly. In fact, I expect challenges to be had and I look forward to them as a personal test of sorts. Walking the Camino Olvidado has been challenging but it has not been a bad experience – I appreciate everything it has given me and I look forward to what it has in store for me tomorrow and the next few weeks.

So… now on to today:

27.7km +/- my watch battery died and I lost the last couple of KMs walking into Boñar. Due to the angle of the sun, I walked mostly in the shade except the last 7-10km. My calves got a little red.

The wildflowers were out in force – beautiful colors and shapes, Gaia has a way of putting all of these colors in perfect arrangement to share the beauty of them with us.

While there is a total of just over 900m total elevation gain, you really don’t notice it as it is so gradual and the country side is so beautiful through oak forests that you just walk right up it. Only in one or two places did I notice it where I put my trekking poles into low gear and my heart pounded.

After the climb, I followed a ridge for about 7-10km of mostly sparse oak and chaparral with wildflowers. Just before the decent into the valley, there were some pine trees that offered a nice place to take a nap – so I did.

Once in the valley, another 10km or so to Boñar through villages, pasture and rolling hills. This was where the sun was out in force and there was little shade. By the end, it was pretty warm. I took advantage of the village fountains to wash my face of sweat and salt so it didn’t get into my eyes.

Many little parochial Romanesque churches, bridges and even a Roman road post – and I thought I was on a farm track.

I am staying in a hostal that is run by a venerable matriarch, who takes the proceeds and takes care of elderly without resources.

Today was a good day on the Camino. Much gratitude to those that make it work…

Now for the pics…

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