The grey clouds hung low over the mountains today, showing us glimpses of rain on the next ridge over. Luckily, we were only sprinkled on in the last hour or so, and just enough to cool us down, not get us wet.

Most of today was on asphalt, but the country roads were probably the original Roman roads 1500-2000 years ago as the river canyon was fairly steep and prevented road building in many parts.

The first hour – 5km – was a steady climb out of the valley for a 180m elevation gain. We were then dropped back into the valley and back up to another ridge. This time on what was obviously an old Roman road with the wagon wheel ruts ground into to rock the road was constructed on. Once we got to the top, we were again dropped steeply back to the valley floor below where we followed the river closely until we go to Quiroga.

On the way, we passed through little villages and an old community olive press – which unfortunately was locked up so we couldn’t see the actual press.

On one of the drops into the valley below, we came across an old man who was walking his three cats – or they might have been walking him. When we met, he invited us to have a chupito of his home made orujo – an alcoholic beverage made from herbs and left over crops of the year. He had been making orujo for over fourty years. He was 96 years old and had lost his wife four years ago. His kids have moved away and he has lived in the country his whole life. There were no other houses within 500m, he and his cats greeted pilgrims on the Camino and offered them cherries and fresh water – and some he invited to have a chupito. The sparkle in his eyes made it clear, he was full of life and energy and he told us many stories of country life. He’s certainly an old soul, but a very kind one, and loves to give back to community and pilgrims alike. This world needs more people like him.