Day 2: Camino de Fatima/Santiago

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The forecast for Day Two was in the low 90s. We had two options: a 20km hike or a 34km one. We decided to keep our plans flexible.

The route from Vila Franca da Xira to Azambuja was 20km, mostly on asphalt—probably 70-80%—with the rest on dirt roads. It was completely flat and entirely exposed, with no shade.

The day started off cool, around 68°F, but the heat quickly ramped up. At about 16km into the hike, we considered pushing on to the next albergue, another 13km away, since we were feeling pretty good. But then the heat really hit, and before I knew it, Luis Armando was out of sight. At the edge of Azambuja, I found a small patch of shade near some bamboo and waited for him. When he caught up, we both realized we were exhausted from the heat. Since it was still early and the albergue wasn’t open yet, we decided to grab lunch. Unfortunately, the flies were all over the tuna lasagna, making the meal less than enjoyable, but I ate what I could.

Throughout the day, every place we stopped had the TV on, showing news of wildfires about 150-200km to the north. Though the fires were far from us, we could smell the smoke as the plume passed overhead.

With the high temperatures, smoke in the air, and more heat forecast for the following day, we decided to take the train to Santarém, giving ourselves a rest day to do laundry and explore the town.

On the train, I managed to find some seats, facing three ladies who seemed to be enjoying their peaceful ride. As I hoisted my pack up to the overhead storage, disaster struck—my water bottle slipped out, and wouldn’t you know it, it smacked one of them right on the knee before bouncing to the floor.

In a heroic attempt to help, she bent down to pick it up. Unfortunately, what neither of us realized was that the top had broken during the fall, and the bottle was now basically an open faucet. Water sprayed everywhere—on her, on me, and all over the seats I had just claimed.

Luis Armando, blissfully unaware of the chaos, turned around just in time to witness the aftermath—the confusion, the soaked seats, and the ladies trying not to laugh. That was it, the perfect icebreaker. Soon, we were deep in conversation with the three women, who, it turned out, were elementary school teachers heading home to Santarém after a long day at work.

What started as a water bottle disaster ended up as the beginning of a delightful chat. It’s funny how a little chaos can bring people together!

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