https://www.mapmyfitness.com/workout/8173651519

Santarém sits on a defensible hill, surrounded by walls and natural bluffs that have protected it through centuries of conflict between the Moors, Romans, Portuguese, and others. It was the perfect spot for a layover.

Today, we picked up the Camino again. For the past few days, we’ve been following both the Camino de Santiago (yellow arrows) and the Camino de Fátima (blue arrows). Now, the paths diverge, and we’ll be following the blue arrows.

Today’s journey is 35 kilometers, taking us to the town of Monsanto, and for the first time, we encountered some real trails and hills. The morning started off with perfect hiking weather, gradually warming up to the mid-70s. Without much shade, it felt hotter, but still manageable.

The first 24 kilometers were mostly asphalt, and the last stretch, about 8 kilometers, led us through oak and eucalyptus forests. We tackled two climbs, each about 250 meters of elevation over 2-3 kilometers. The terrain was rocky and challenging, with loose stones and narrow passages through chaparral. It was tough but worth it—though the views from the top were hidden by fog, which, in a way, was a blessing, offering a cool break from the heat.

We passed rolling hills and farms, with bell peppers growing all around. I couldn’t resist grabbing one—it was juicy and delicious. Fresh produce straight from the source is unbeatable. We also came across fig trees, their sweet aroma inviting us to pick and enjoy them. Naturally, I obliged.

Around the 32-kilometer mark, I made a sudden turn and started heading down the hill we had been climbing. Tio wasn’t thrilled, but I had a good reason: there was a river below with a dam, a swimming hole, and picnic tables. I was determined to take a dip and cool off.

Normally, I might not have done this, but for the last six weeks, I’d been swimming with a friend in our local river, and the thought of jumping into this one was too tempting. The water was crystal clear, and we could see trout and whitefish swimming around us. The cold felt amazing on our legs after such a long walk. After drying off, we climbed back up the hill and continued to Monsanto.

Our albergue for the night was in a clock tower, where we were frequently reminded of the time—mostly because the clock needed resetting to be accurate! Thankfully, the bells weren’t loud enough to wake us, but if we were already awake, they definitely made themselves heard.