Today was a solitary 20km stroll, tracing the path of the Río Esla. I’ve been keeping company with this river for three days now, including its wide, quiet reservoir near Riaño. Much of the trail today, like parts of yesterday follows an old Roman trade route. That’s essentially what the Camino Vadiniense is: an ancient connector between the big Roman roads that became the Camino Francés and the Camino del Norte. Practical then. Peaceful now.

These Roman routes still wind past tiny hamlets. Some take pride in the Camino and keep the trails clear. Others… not so much. Yesterday, the weeds were shoulder-high, hiding all manner of prickles, stingers, and bloodsuckers. I was basically bushwhacking my way through blackberry brambles and nettle gauntlets, all while hoping no tick found my ankles attractive.

The first five kilometers today were more of the same green, itchy chaos. So when I stopped for breakfast, I asked the barkeep about the trail ahead. She smirked knowingly and warned me: “Muchas malas hierbas.” I joked about yesterday’s weed wall, and she reassured me that what lay ahead was “mucho mejor.”

And she was right.

The path opened up. For the next 15km, it was pure joy. I passed old iron mine shafts, sections of the Esla where they’ve built whitewater kayaking circuits, and green pastures where cows blocked the trail and gave me long, judgmental stares. It felt like I was trespassing on their property. I bowed politely and continued on.

Cistierna snuck up on me. I was sure I’d recognize it. After all, I stayed here three years ago while walking the Camino Olvidado. But nothing rang a bell. Turns out that year I had detoured here by train after striking out on beds in the previous towns. Different route, same way point.

I reread my blog from that trip and smiled. The next two days are long, both about 30km but fairly flat, or at least forgiving in their climbs. I am looking forward to them.

Tomorrow I walk to La Robla where, back in 2022, I met my friend Paco. I’m eager to return. Maybe the Camino has more old friends hiding just around the bend.