I have been back for just shy of four weeks now and usually when I travel, I have some type of “culture shock” or revelations. In this case they are revelations. These are mostly comparisons between Mexico and the United States. They are also similar to what I have experienced in the past coming back to the US.

Police Corruption – it’s present, but not the norm

While we got stopped several times by the myriad of different types of police in Mexico, I was actually only harassed one time. Yes it was stressful, but I got out unscathed. I was warned about the police in this town and their ties to the cartels, so it’s not surprising.

What is important to note, is that on our last day in Mexico, traveling from Saltillo to Eagle Pass, TX, we pulled out of our hotel, but there were large orange cones in the driveway. These can mean anything in Mexico, so I simply had them moved and we drove onto the boulevard in front of the hotel. Except that it was crowded with pedestrians, joggers, and cyclists. Evidently, they close many roads every Sunday to traffic and let the people “own” the streets and use them for exercise and just getting out without having to worry about the traffic. A novel idea.

It was closed however, and as I was turning right to get off the boulevard at the first intersection, I got waived down by a young police officer. I knew this could be problematic, so I preemptively opened my window and before he had a chance to say anything, I greeted him and asked him how to get off this boulevard and explained the situation. He asked for my license, told me what I already knew and then told me to pull over to the street I was already turning onto. After about 5-10 minutes, he said he needed to give me a ticket, but it was obvious he didn’t really want to, so I asked to talk with his supervisor. About 10 minutes later his supervisor pulled up in a pickup truck and I got out and talked with him for another 10 minutes. Again taking the initiative to state the obvious, then I asked him if he could escort us out of the city as we couldn’t wait for the road to open as we had an appointment with Banjercito at the border for paperwork. He too stated he should give us a ticket, but then I asked again for an escort and he obliged. Escorting us about five miles to where there would be no more road closures, he turned around and waived us on.

In our travel stories, we don’t talk about the good interactions with police too much, but every other interaction I had with them, whether it be on the street walking and asking for directions, asking for questions about their town, or being stopped for standard inspections – was a positive experience. They are there just doing their jobs.

I got harassed only once out of the twenty or so interactions I had with the police in Mexico. The one time I got harassed, it was in a known cartel collusion area, I was warned, and I was driving a foreign vehicle. In the end, they let me go my way without any issues other than 60-90 minute delay in my day, and it really didn’t impact me other than the time I was stopped.

So, while we are warned and talk about police corruption in Mexico, and it most definitely is present, they are in the minority and most police officers are just doing their job and are happy to talk to/with you. They are people too.

Mexican vs US Drivers

In Mexico, driving has you on your toes. I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous, and from my anecdotal experiences driving over 25,000 miles in Mexico over the years, I would venture to say that Mexican drivers are actually better drivers than those in the US. Here is why I have come to that conclusion:

In Mexico, you will encounter topes or speed bumps on every type of road from cul-de-sacs, to country lanes, to boulevards, to major national autopsists or toll roads. They can be anything from white lines painted on the road way causing vibrations to jolting six inch tall asphalt tire/suspension-destroying humps that are unmarked.

On the contrast, there are also potholes on every roadway in varying states of decay, depth, and diabolical properties that will give you spinal compression fractures as you are launched out of the pothole and back onto the roadway for a final suspension-misalignment treatment.

There are also the narrow (think country lane) two-lane highways that have no shoulder, but instead have a 5-500′ drop off on one side and immoveable trees encroaching on the highway so you can’t use the entire lane. As you encounter these narrow lanes, you must add the pot holes and topes. So you see oncoming traffic swerving all over the road in front of you playing chicken at 100-120 kph (60-70 MPH).

The speed limits are subjective. The reality is that the road conditions dictate the speed limit plus some. If you go any faster, you will destroy your car.

We also have animals to contend with… dogs, chickens, donkeys, horses, cows, etc. My favorite [sic] are the pigs in the trucks being taken to slaughter. The pack so many pig in the trucks with open siding (just barriers to keep them in) that you can smell the pig trucks for miles before you reach them to over take them. As you are over taking them my suggestion is to do so as the fastest speed possible (well beyond the safe speed for road conditions). The reason for this is that if you take your time in passing these trucks, of the 200-300 pigs on board, of the 10% or so that have their asses pointed to you, one of them will inevitably defecate or urinate all over your vehicle.

Back to the other animal hazards, they are usually not in pastures or tied up. So they roam the roads freely. After all, it’s easier to walk on a road than through rocks and brush. When they are tied up, they are tied up so close to the road, that they will often be laying down on the road and sleeping – until you get close then they will suddenly jump up and run to the end of their tether – in the middle of the road.

Now let’s get to city drivers… traffic lights – pshhh – who needs them. Painted lane lines on the street… pshhh, let’s make our own lanes… blind curves, narrow streets, topes, potholes, livestock… you get the picture.

Now here’s here it gets interesting. Mexicans learned how to drive in these conditions. They are ever-alter and rarely distracted with cell phones, eating in their cars, putting makeup on, shaving, reading, autonomous driving cars, etc. They are reactionary drivers and they are good at it. They take it in stride. For the most part, it’s all part of the commute and just another day.

Because Mexicans are reactionary, offensive, and then finally defensive drivers, they are good drivers. They know how to avoid accidents. In all of the miles we drove this past summer, we saw… TWO accident. The first was where a double gasoline trailer driver fell asleep and ran off the road into a muddy field. There were two tow trucks there trying to extricate it out of the field. The second one was bad, it was a single vehicle accident where the long haul truck driver… fell asleep and the truck went off of one of those aforementioned embankments, overturned and was completely destroyed. The local townspeople were there collecting free cans of Coke and doing the highway department a great service by cleaning up the mess.

In contrast, I have been back in the states for just under four weeks and I have seen countless accidents on the freeways and have only driven about 800 miles. The other thing I have seen is road-rage. People are angry… They want to take it out on anyone. A delivery van and Dodge Charger racing down the freeway weaving in between traffic, driving on the shoulder all because the Charger “cut the delivery driver off”

Because of all the strict traffic laws and the threat of citations, people in the US mostly obey the laws. Because of this, they have time to be distracted. They are on their phones, eating fast food, shaving, having their Teslas drive them, etc. They have forgotten how to drive. So when there’s something out of the norm, they don’t know how to react. The results are no reaction and an accident, or over reaction and an accident.

Because of this, I have come to my subjective conclusion that Mexican (and for similar reasons, most other countries in the world) are better drivers than those from the United States. We pretty much suck at driving. Even good drivers in the US are bad drivers in Mexico. We just don’t have the skillset to be reactive drivers and pay attention – it’s more important for us to answer that text, eat those fries, and put makeup on instead of driving.

We departed on this journey in mid-May with the intent of seeing much of Mexico. To add to the previous trips and to get an idea for areas we would like to settle. In this respect, this journey did not disappoint.

Now that we have been on the road for 14 weeks, we are now headed back north and then west. We are caught going through the desert and the southwestern US in August, the trip will be hot – triple digits all the way, and fast – to avoid the heat, we (I) will be driving 8-12 hours per day for a week. It will be brutal.

Things Learned

One of the things that we learned, or re-learned, is that it’s no fun traveling on the coast and desert in the middle of the summer. The first three weeks of the trip we experienced 100º+ on a daily basis. There was a time where my inverter had problems and the air conditioning didn’t work – brutal. Then when we got to our destination, we stayed inside where it was cool, only to venture out at dusk. What we learned was that to travel and enjoy the coast and the desert, one must travel during the winter months. We knew this already, but due to schedules, etc. we were forced to live through it again – and reinforce what we already knew.

Another thing that we knew – and this is subjective, is that the RV parks are, for the most part, just fine to stay in. Sure there are issues, but after being on the road for 14 weeks, that should be expected. We had power, water, and sewer hookups most everywhere we went, and when we didn’t, it wasn’t a big deal, we found solutions.

Police corruption is a thing! However, between the two of us, only one bribe was paid (within 100m after crossing the border, Gary paid out). One big caveat, we are now headed north to Texas, and I would expect 2-3 stops and possible searches on a daily basis. This is not corruption, this is the Mexican Government and Cartels (for where there are no police for reasons unstated) making sure people are not smuggling things north. I expect there to be x-ray machines, manual searches, and canine searches. I do not expect corruption.

As for corruption, in order of degree, EDOMX – the State of Mexico – are the most corrupt. There they told me they were going to impound the bus for “smoking” – all the while we were passed by cars with blown engines, trucks billowing smoke, etc.

Next would be the State of Hidalgo – here is where Gary’s truck and trailer were: too big, too long, too heavy. He agreed to everything they asked for: to pay a fee, to have license confiscated, to have to pick up the license on Tuesday, then Wednesday, etc. The only thing he asked for was a receipt. That frustrated them to all get out. The police officer got tired of standing in the rain trying to get an edge, but Gary didn’t give him one.

Finally, the state of Sonora. It’s supposed to be a “no hassle” zone for foreign plated vehicles, but they got Gary with a “radar” gun that was probably never calibrated and decades old. They got him at the border, he was following me, but they liked how he tasted more than me. As we were just entering the country, Gary chose to pay out. Now he would do it differently.

The Good…

There are so many things that were good about this trip and that are good about Mexico. They are too numerous to mention here, but visit the rest of the blog and you can read about them there. However, I do want to say that after everything, I WILL BE BACK. The people, culture, art, food, history, geography, etc. are amazing. I love cultures from Latin America, and Mexico is near the top. I cannot say enough good things about Mexico and the things we have seen and done here. Some of my posts may seem negative, and sure, we find things that are less than desirable, but they are far fewer and far less important than the good things we have experienced.

Relocation

One of the reasons for this and previous trips has been to scout out regions where we feel we would like to relocate in a few years. Our goldilocks zone is the altiplano or highlands, between 1500 and 2500 meters in the mountains. Luckily for us, this is the majority of the country – from Durango in the north, all the way to the Guatemalan border to the south – on the interior of the country.

Our other key points of concern are:

• A mid-size city – 150K-1mln people
• An international airport within one hour
• decent infrastructure
• culture

We previously identified five areas where we would like to visit. They included Morelia, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Puebla, and Guanajuato. Of the five, my personal top two would be Cholula in Puebla and San Cristobal de las Casa in Chiapas. I can see at least two more trips to validate them.

Closing

I don’t think I will be posting any more on this blog unless something exciting happens between here and home. I would like to thank all of you readers who followed along as your involvement helped me document this trip for revisiting in the future.

San Miguel de Allende

Mineral de Pozos

MdP is a PM near SMdA – about 40km. It is another mining town, but this time it is located in the high desert. Much of the agriculture are nopales. They say this is a large dairy area, but I haven’t seen any cattle.

This is a very small town, the city center is about six square blocks, and from what we could tell, there’s not much else to the town. The first thing we did was to bump into a gallery of pre-hispanic musical instruments. This was a -really- cool gallery, we were encouraged to pick up all displays and play with them – and to buy them if we so wanted. We wanted… After talking to the proprietor about the different instrument makers, etc., I bought two instruments. One is a rattle made of seed pods from Flor de Maguey. This one sounds like a babbling brook, rain, or water. It’s really cool and fun to play. The other one that I bought is a rain stick – made from mesquite and cactus spines. Inside, the little rocks fall on the spines and since none of them are the same, each spine sounds a little different. You can hear the individual drops of rain from this instrument.

One of the attractions of Mineral de Pozos is all of the mines. There are over 500 mines in the municipality, most of them unbarricaded and ripe to fall in for any unsuspecting soul. We took a tour which have no regulation other than you must wear a hard-hat. Your safety is your problem, the guides cannot be responsible for you. If you only have three beers to take down into the mine, it’s not enough, you need more, etc, etc. Along with the mines is a Jesuit site to see. It’s ruins now, but it’s pretty incredible. Talk about open mines…

Dolores de Hidalgo

My wife texted me the other day and asked me to pick up some talavera pots. I asked at the RV Park office where to get some and the girl at the front desk pointed me to Dolores de Hidalgo – another Pueblo Mágico about 30km away.

Off we went, with the sole intention of buying pottery. When my wife sent me pictures of what she wanted, the pictures also had the prices in USD. When I got to the stores, I realized the prices were about 10-15% of the prices in the US. So I bought some pottery. The bus is full, my wife will be happy. The most challenging thing of the day, was how to fit all of the pottery I bought into Gary’s truck – the Ford Super Duty F-350 truck… I didn’t worry about it fitting into my bus – it’s a school bus after all.

This town was a little desert town. Not much about it other than the Talavera pottery. Except…

This town is where Padre Hidalgo, a Catholic priest who championed for the indigenous, meztico, and poorer Spaniards alike, cried for Mexican independence in 1865. While his movement was short lived due to his capture and murder, he is known as the father of Mexican independence. He is a much celebrated historical figure and his “Grito de la Independencia” was given in Dolores de Hidalgo.

Coming down from 9500′ in elevation, it was nice to settle once again around 7000′. Even though it’s still high, I felt I could breath a bit better.

This town or small city was quite nice. Located in the Goldilocks zone for climate. The City Center was about 20 square blocks and was extremely clean. The town is famous for Art, Cheese, and Wine. Of which I sampled and bought some of each. This is a town that I could live in. Colonial style architecture, clean, close to a major airport, not-too-small-not-to-big, lots of trees, etc.

This town is also the geographical center of Mexico. They are proud to have that distinction and celebrate it.

Bernal de la Peña

BdP is a small town about 20km outside of Tequis. It is a quaint little town with castles, a natural monument and pastries. It reminds me a little bit of Solvang, CA. We drove out to the BdP in the afternoon and were treated to a relaxing stroll around town to take in the sights and smells.

The Peña is a tall natural monument that is the world’s third largest. You could see people up near the top, and I would normally want to hike it, but with the altitude, and… ahem… me being lazy, we opted just to stroll around town.

The fore-mentioned castle is actually a hotel and spa. I nice place from what we saw, I would stay here.

One of the attractions we ran across was the museum of masks. Very interesting collection of masks from around the world from many different eras…

Huasca de Ocampo is a Pueblo Mágico and is situated just outside of the El Chico national park. It is about an hour and about 2,000′ lower in elevation from where we were camped. Because of its close proximity to Pachuca and its relatively close proximity to Mexico City, this region is very popular with Mexicans for all sorts of outdoor activities. When we visited the area, we saw very few foreign tourists, but the streets were packed with Mexican tourists. This is great to see, as over the last 5-10 years, the growth of the middle class in Mexico has afforded more an more local tourism.

The town itself is a quaint little town with many, many summer cabins. The downtown section is six square blocks and is easy to navigate. But like all small towns, parking a Super Duty F-350 is a bit difficult.

One of HdO’s claim to fame, is that it was the First town to obtain the Pueblo Mágico status. IMO, the primary reason why HdO got this status was for the UNESCO site, and the outdoor recreation potential the area has.

UNESCO Site

Just outside of town, there is a UNESCO site, Las Prismas Basálticos. This site is located at a Balneario or a “spa”. It’s mostly a water park, or community swimming pool, situated on the downstream side of the town’s reservoir. This is a bit different than most balnearios as this one is full of tourist shops, restaurants and vendors. Aside from the pools and sports courts that are here for people to enjoy and have events, there is also a river that runs through the park. The river comes out of the reservoir and is in a canyon about 100-150 meters deep. The canyon starts from the reservoir dam, runs through the park and on its way. The canyon walls are why it is a UNESCO site. The walls are tall hexagonal basaltic columns ranging from 2-4′ in diameter and as tall as the canyon walls. They are all broken off at various points to give the impression that you could play Q*Bert on them.

It certainly is a wonder and deserves to be on the UNESCO list. However…

As you look down, you don’t immediately notice the color of the water, as the numerous waterfalls flowing makes you think it’s just the churning of the water that discolors the water. But as you walk down the steps into the canyon and start getting sprayed by the fine mist, you recognize the unique smell of sewage. The reservoir is highly polluted and as it flows into the river and thus canyon, so too are they polluted. As soon as I realized this, I ran back out of the canyon and ewww… I just wanted to take a shower at that point. Anyway, beautiful YES – best to view from the top.

Gnomes, Trolls, and Elves

In the area of El Chico National Park, it is largely a mining area of which the Spanish started mining in the early 16th century. Shortly thereafter, the Cornish came over and had their take at extracting ore from the mountains. Because of this, the whole area has English superstitions about gnomes, trolls, elves, and basically other fey to explain the unexplained. HdO has many, many theme parks and museums focusing on these superstitions. Most of them are over the top. My take on this, was that it could have been done much better, but the way this one theme park was done, they want you to believe that they are true believers, but they fill the park with cheap Chinese plastic gnomes. There’s just no way any reasonable person could do anything other than laugh – and run away a fast as possible.

El Chico is the oldest national park in Mexico, founded in the late 1800’s. There are three Pueblos Mágicos nearby…

Mineral del Chico

Mineral del Chico is a town located in the state of Hidalgo, Mexico. It has a long and rich history that spans several centuries. Here is a detailed history of Mineral del Chico:

Pre-Columbian Era:
The area around Mineral del Chico was inhabited by indigenous peoples long before the arrival of the Spanish. The Otomi and Tepehua were among the native groups who lived in the region, engaging in agriculture and trade.

Spanish Conquest and Colonial Period:
The Spanish arrived in the region in the early 16th century, seeking to conquer and colonize new territories. Mineral del Chico was officially founded in 1572 by Spanish settlers as a mining town due to the discovery of silver and other minerals in the area.

The Spanish established mining operations in Mineral del Chico, extracting silver, gold, lead, and other valuable minerals. The town quickly grew in importance as one of the main mining centers in colonial Mexico. Mining activities brought significant wealth and prosperity to the town and the surrounding region.

In the colonial period, the town’s architectural heritage began to take shape, with the construction of religious buildings and colonial-style houses. The Church of San Nicolás de Tolentino, built in the 18th century, is one of the prominent historical landmarks in Mineral del Chico.

Independence and Post-Independence Period:
During the early 19th century, Mexico fought for and gained its independence from Spanish rule. The mining industry in Mineral del Chico faced challenges during this period of political instability. The town experienced changes in ownership and management of mining operations.

Modern Era and Decline of Mining:
In the 20th century, Mineral del Chico’s mining activities gradually declined due to various factors, including the exhaustion of some mineral deposits and changes in the global mining industry. Many mines were eventually abandoned.

Tourism and Conservation:
In the latter half of the 20th century, the town’s historical and natural attractions began to draw attention from tourists and conservationists. Mineral del Chico’s charming colonial architecture, historical buildings, and scenic landscapes, including the surrounding forests and mountains, became important assets for tourism.

The town’s proximity to the El Chico National Park, established in 1898 and Mexico’s first national forest reserve, further enhanced its appeal as a destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Today, Mineral del Chico is known as a quaint and picturesque town with a unique blend of colonial heritage and natural beauty. Its historical significance, combined with its outdoor recreational opportunities, continues to attract visitors seeking to explore Mexico’s rich history and enjoy its natural landscapes. The town remains an important part of Hidalgo’s cultural and tourism offerings, preserving its past while embracing its future.

The Legend of the Casa de las Brujas

The legend of the Witches’ House (La Casa de las Brujas) in Mineral del Chico is a popular and intriguing local tale that adds to the town’s mystique and attracts curious visitors. According to the legend, the Witches’ House was once the residence of a powerful and secretive coven of witches who practiced their dark arts in the area.

The story goes that many years ago, the Witches’ House was inhabited by a group of witches who were feared and respected by the local community. These witches were said to possess supernatural powers and practiced ancient rituals and spells, often performing their ceremonies under the cover of darkness.

As the legend goes, the witches’ presence in the town created a sense of fear and mystery among the townspeople. Some believe that the witches would cast spells on unsuspecting individuals, causing misfortune or illness.

The Witches’ House itself is said to have an eerie and foreboding atmosphere, with its dark and sinister appearance adding to the legend’s intrigue. The legends mention tales of strange lights, mysterious sounds, and apparitions surrounding the house, further fueling the belief in its magical and haunted nature.

Over time, the legend of the Witches’ House has become an integral part of Mineral del Chico’s folklore, attracting tourists and thrill-seekers intrigued by tales of the supernatural. While the exact origins of the legend are unclear, it has become an important aspect of the town’s cultural heritage, contributing to its unique identity as a place of both history and mystery. Whether one believes in the paranormal or not, the legend of the Witches’ House adds to the enchanting ambiance of Mineral del Chico and leaves visitors with an unforgettable experience.

The Legend of Las Monjas

The legend of the nuns in the rock formation (Las Monjas) in Mineral del Chico is another captivating tale that adds to the town’s charm and intrigue. According to the legend, the rock formation known as “Las Monjas” (The Nuns) is said to resemble a group of nuns gathered together in prayer or conversation.

The story goes that long ago, during the colonial period, a group of nuns sought refuge in the hills of Mineral del Chico to escape religious persecution. These nuns were from a nearby convent and were hiding from authorities who sought to suppress their religious practices.

As the nuns took shelter among the rocks, they were believed to have formed a circle, symbolizing their unity and solidarity in the face of adversity. Over time, the rocks slowly transformed into the shape of nuns, creating the striking and recognizable rock formation known as “Las Monjas.”

The legend adds an air of mystery and reverence to the rock formation, making it a significant landmark for both locals and visitors. It is said that the spirit of the nuns still resides within the rocks, and some believe that their prayers and blessings can be felt by those who visit the site.

As with many legends, the story of the nuns in the rock formation in Mineral del Chico is passed down through generations, often blending historical events with elements of folklore and imagination. While the actual origin of the rock formation may be geological, the legend has become an integral part of the town’s cultural heritage and continues to capture the imagination of those who come to witness the impressive sight of “Las Monjas.”

As luck would have it, during our two-week down-time, we stumbled across the Museo Regional de Cholula – a history museum of Cholula and the immediate area. This museum had much of the same information we have already seen at other historical museums in central Mexico, but with a Cholulan flavor or twist.

One of the most exiting exhibits that we stumbled across was the Alebrije Parade, or Desfile de Alebrijes. Since I have an affinity towards them, I am sharing…

Cholula is on the outskirts of Puebla, a city of 3.8mln people. Cholula has around 150K in the city proper and about 250k in the surrounding neighborhoods. Puebla has a large – albeit little used international airport, mainly to receive parts from large cargo planes from Germany for the VW plant there.

The whole area is filled with culture and history, and ticks most, if not all the checkboxes for places I would want to move to in retirement (tomorrow or in 10 years is undecided). We stayed here for two weeks to get a feel for the vibes, layout, and offerings the area has.

Puebla City

This city was the center of the battle against the invading French, and where the Mexican army beat down the superior numbers and equipped French troops. Way back when, the French came up with an idea of national and personal sovereignty. The French invaded Mexico in the early 1860s primarily to establish a Mexican monarchy under the rule of Archduke Maximilian of Austria. This invasion took place during the French intervention in Mexico (also known as the Second French intervention in Mexico) which lasted from 1861 to 1867. France sought to exert influence in Mexico and gain control over the country’s affairs, but the invasion ultimately faced resistance and opposition from Mexican forces led by figures like Benito Juárez, leading to the eventual withdrawal of French troops and the execution of Maximilian in 1867. This Mexican success lead to the national holiday, Cinco de Mayo.

Cholula

Cholula is an ancient city located in modern-day Mexico, known for its rich history and significant archaeological sites. Here’s a brief overview of its history:

• Preclassic Period: Cholula’s history dates back to around 2000 BCE, with evidence of early settlements in the area. During the Preclassic Period (2000 BCE – 200 CE), the city began to emerge as an important center for trade and religious activities.
• Classic Period: Cholula reached its peak during the Classic Period (200 CE – 900 CE) when it became a major urban center of the Mesoamerican civilization. The city’s population grew, and impressive pyramids and temples were constructed.
• Toltec Influence: Around the 10th century, Cholula came under the influence of the Toltec civilization, which brought new architectural styles and religious practices to the city.
• Aztec Period: In the 14th and 15th centuries, the Aztec Empire expanded its influence over Cholula. The city remained a prominent religious center, with its Great Pyramid, known as Tlachihualtepetl, becoming a focal point of worship.
• Spanish Conquest: In 1519, the Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés arrived in Cholula during his expedition to Mexico. The indigenous inhabitants initially welcomed the Spaniards, but tensions escalated, leading to a violent encounter known as the “Massacre of Cholula.” The Spanish and their indigenous allies attacked and destroyed much of the city, including many of its religious structures.
• Colonial Period: After the Spanish conquest, Cholula was rebuilt as a colonial town, and the Spanish constructed churches and buildings atop the pre-existing indigenous structures. The city became an important center for evangelization and continued to be a cultural and religious hub.
• Modern Times: Today, Cholula is a vibrant city in the state of Puebla, Mexico. Its archaeological sites, including the Great Pyramid, continue to be important tourist attractions and provide valuable insights into the ancient history of the region. Cholula remains a place where ancient traditions and modern life intersect, celebrating its cultural heritage and historical significance.

The great pyramid of Cholula is largely unexplored and is the largest pyramid in the world by volume coming in at 4.45 million cubic meters, followed by the Great Pyramid of Giza coming in and just over half with 2.5 million cubic meters. It doesn’t look like much other than a hill with a church on top of it, but once you walk around and up-and-over it, the real size becomes apparent.

Note: The picture galleries are just that – as displayed, they are thumbnails. To view the full sized picture, just click on the thumbnail and you can cycle through the pictures in the gallery.

I’ve been to see a lot of Mesoamerican pyramids – mostly Maya, but Olmec, Zapotec, and Toltec as well. I have not seen a lot of Aztec ruins – aside from the Templo Mayor in CDMX. I had always incorrectly thought that the Teotihuacán pyramids were of Aztec origin. This trip set me straight.

Danza de los Voladores

The Voladores Totonaceños greeted us in the parking lot – we parked right in front of their pole. Due to the stresses of the morning’s drive, we sat for a bit in the rigs and made lunch and relaxed for a bit. I then heard a whistle playing a little jig and looked outside. The four dancers were at the top of the pole and started to descend. I quickly got my phone out and snapped a few pictures and then took a video of the dance. It basically consists of four men tied off and hanging upside down from a wood frame that has ropes twisted around the top of the central pole. As their weight pulls on the ropes, they all unwind together causing them to spin in unison around the pole. As they spin, the ropes extend and they descend to the ground.

Piramedes de Teotihucán

With most ancient ruins in mesoamerica, the signage and information about them tends to be lacking. I didn’t want to wander around and just observe them, so we got a guide to take us through. His name was Miguel and was an amicable guide.

The city complex foundation was laid down during the pre-classic period of mesoamerica – from 2000 BCE – 250 CE while most of the pyramids and temples were built during the classic period from 250–900 CE. Here’s a quick table of the Mesoamerican periods and the civilizations that we prominent during each period (copied from Wikipedia).

Paleo-Indian	10,000–3500 BCE	Honduras, Guatemala, Belize, obsidian and pyrite points, Iztapan, Chantuto Archaeological Site
Archaic	3500–2000 BCE	Agricultural settlements, Tehuacán
Preclassic (Formative)	2000 BCE–250 CE	Unknown culture in La Blanca and Ujuxte, Monte Alto culture, Mokaya culture
Early Preclassic	2000–1000 BCE	Olmec area: San Lorenzo Tenochtitlán; Central Mexico: Chalcatzingo; Valley of Oaxaca: San José Mogote. The Maya area: Nakbe, Cerros; West Mexico: Capacha
Middle Preclassic	950–400 BCE	Olmec area: La Venta, Tres Zapotes; Zoque area: Chiapa de Corzo; Maya area: El Mirador, Izapa, Lamanai, Naj Tunich, Takalik Abaj, Kaminaljuyú, Uaxactun; Valley of Oaxaca: Monte Albán, Dainzú; West Mexico: Capacha
Late Preclassic	400 BCE–250 CE	Zoque area: Chiapa de Corzo; Maya area: Kaminaljuyu, El Mirador, Uaxactun, Tikal, Edzná, Cival, San Bartolo, Altar de Sacrificios, Piedras Negras, Ceibal, Rio Azul; Central Mexico: Teotihuacan; Gulf Coast: Epi-Olmec culture West Mexico: Teuchitlan tradition, shaft tomb culture, Chupícuaro
Classic	250–900	Classic Maya Centers, Teotihuacan, Zapotec
Early Classic	250–600	Maya area: Calakmul, Caracol, Chunchucmil, Copán, Naranjo, Palenque, Quiriguá, Tikal, Uaxactun, Yaxha; Teotihuacan apogee; Zapotec apogee; Bajío apogee; Teuchitlan tradition
Late Classic	600–900	Maya area: Uxmal, Toniná, Cobá, Xunantunich, Waka’, Pusilhá, Xultún, Dos Pilas, Cancuén, Aguateca, La Blanca; Central Mexico: Xochicalco, Cacaxtla, Cholula; Gulf Coast: El Tajín and Classic Veracruz culture
Terminal Classic	800–900/1000	Maya area: Puuc sites – Uxmal, Labna, Sayil, Kabah; Petén Basin sites – Seibal, El Chal
Postclassic	900–1521	Aztec, Tarascans, Mixtec, Totonac, Pipil, Itzá, Kowoj, K’iche’, Kaqchikel, Poqomam, Mam, Aztatlán
Early Postclassic	900–1200	Tula, Mitla, Tulum, Topoxte
Late Postclassic	1200–1521	Tenochtitlan, Cempoala, Tzintzuntzan, Mayapán, Tiho, Q’umarkaj, Iximche, Mixco Viejo, Zaculeu
Colonial	1521–1821	Nahuas, Maya, Mixtec, Zapotec, Purépecha, Chinantec, Otomi, Tepehua, Totonac, Mazatec, Tlapanec, Amuzgo
Postcolonial	1821–present	Nahuas, Maya, Mixtec, Zapotec, Purépecha, Chinantec, Otomi, Tepehua, Totonac, Mazatec, Tlapanec, Amuzgo

As we entered the complex, Miguel explained that in 1910, the government of Mexico “discovered” the ruins and the president at the time wanted to preserve them. The main problem was that the city was thought to be 22 sq km. Much of which had towns and aldeas (villages) built on top of it, and he couldn’t use eminent domain without causing a problem. So instead he concentrated on the center of the city, which included the main temple complex(es) consisting of about 9sq km. At the time, the 22sq km consisted of surviving stone ruins where the city center, elites, temples, main markets, pyramids, etc were located. Any clay, wooden or thatch buildings were outside of this area and were not considered at the time, nor conserved.

The city we would be seeing today – from the Citadel and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent to the Pyramid of the Moon, was about 3km long.

The Citadel plaza is about 200m x 200m squared on the inside. The outside walls were made up another 50m on each side – so not really that small. There is a small short platform in the center – being the citadel. Next to it, is the Temple of the Feathered Serpent (in Mayan, it is called Kululkan). I had always thought that Quetzalcoatl was the feathered serpent in Aztec, but for some reason the guide wanted to express that Quetzalcoatl and the Feathered Serpent were different. Perhaps because Quetzalcoatl is Aztec and the “Feathered Serpent” was pre-aztec.

Between the Citadel and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent, sits an archeological dig site tent. There they found a tunnel entrance. It goes down 15m or 50′, and then heads east towards the Temple of the Feathered Serpent for about 100m where it ends in a tomb where in 2010, the found 260 bodies from all over mesoamerica. These were not just any ordinary bodies, these seem to be elite, priests, the wealthy, etc. from all over. These were not sacrifices, they were offerings. It is thought that these people got together and “offered” their lives and bodies to the significance of the rituals which the pyramids entomb. The number 260 corresponds to the lunar calendar of 260 days. At the different exterior layers of the Temple of the Feathered Serpent, are 365 monuments set into the sides, of Tlaloc (the god of water) and The Feathered Serpent. This is more of a curiosity than anything else for me, more research is needed as to the reasons why.

Avenue of the Dead

The Avenue of the Dead is the main boulevard that goes north-to south starting at the Pyramid of the Moon down to the Citadel complex – and beyond. It is named that because the people who inhabited Teotihuacán did not have cemeteries. Instead, they buried their dead in family temples in front of their homes along the street. So while the non-permanent structures are now long gone, their family tombs and the dead buried there are still present – except those that have been removed in modern times.

Administration, Government Offices, Elite Residences

With any town or large city, there must be a place where the daily grind is adminstered from. In the case of Teotihuacán, it is thought that these compounds were also the residences of the elite, as they have found evidence of residencies within. This section is possibly 100m x 100m and has multiple layers, and levels. There are areas for food stores, water cisterns, fresh water channels, and sewage channels. There is even evidence of showers with running water controlled by gates.

Pyramid of the Sun

The pyramid of the sun is the largest pyramid in Teotihuacán – although it is not the largest pyramid in Mexico as we found out later. For better and worse, the pyramid of the sun has been permanently closed for two years because there was too much wear from all of those that wanted to climb it. Archeological digs still are active and they continue to discover new details about the ancient civilizations that inhabited and built these monuments.

Mural of the Puma

It was thought that this mural was that of the Jaguar as the jaguar holds prominence throughout the city. However, after close study, it is now the thought that this mural is that of a puma, in the rain. This mural pays tribute to Tlaloc, the god of water and agriculture, as well as the Puma which could symbolize power and strength. One could come to the conclusion that this mural was a depiction of Tlaloc bringing the power and abundance of water to the agriculture for bountiful crops.

Pyramid of the Moon

The pyramid of the moon is situated further north and uphill from the pyramid of the sun. While the Pyramid of the Moon is shorter and smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, because of where they are located and their elevation, the tops of both pyramids are equal to each other. It is thought that some ceremonies would be held at both pyramids at the same time in concert or synchronization with each other to express their relationship in the cosmos.

The Pyramid of the Moon has also been closed to scaling due to abuses, but it is still open during equinox and solstice festivals for indigenous groups.

In the picture below, the size of the pyramids is so large, that my panoramic shot could not capture the complete complex. In the far left, you can see a mound covered by trees – that is yet another pyramid that has yet to be uncovered.

Palace of Quetzalpapalotl

This palace, while it has been reconstructed, has some of the most well preserved murals and stucco in the city. There are many stucco murals of the Quetzal and Jaguar throughout this palace. In addition, there are good examples of the water system, including baths and toilets.

Observatory

I have seen many ancient Mesoamerican observatories. The one located at Teotihuacán is both impressive and ordinary – if you could call anything here ordinary. Comparing it to that of Palenque, Tikal, or Copán, this observatory seems to lack awe. However, if you have a guide that can explain to you how it worked, you would be highly impressed.

This observatory has an open roof – to better see the cosmos, and it measures about 15m x 15m on the inside. The floor used to be covered in sheets of mica – a reflective stone, also called fools gold. Then it would be filled with water. The results were that the light of the cosmos would be reflected through the water, off the mica and onto the walls of the observatory, where readings could be taken on the special markings that no longer exist. You can see holes in the walls where instruments would be placed for the readings.