The Last 100km: What Changes in the Final Stretch

The final 100 kilometers of the Camino de Santiago, from Sarria to Santiago on the Francés, Tui to Santiago on the Portugués, or any last stretch of your chosen route, is unlike any other part of the journey. For some, it feels like a victory lap, the last few days before reaching the long-awaited cathedral. For others, it is the most difficult stretch, not because of the walking itself, but because the end is finally in sight. And for those who begin their Camino in these last 100 kilometers, it is an entirely different experience, bringing a new energy to the trail, one that can be both invigorating and, at times, overwhelming.

If you have walked from farther back, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Porto, or beyond, the moment you reach Sarria (or your route’s 100km marker), the shift is immediate. The trail becomes noticeably busier. Pilgrims who have been walking for weeks now find themselves surrounded by fresh faces, many of whom have just begun their journey and are full of energy. Albergues fill up faster, café lines stretch longer, and the once-quiet mornings on the trail are now filled with larger groups, school trips, and organized walking tours. Many of these new pilgrims are walking just the minimum distance required to earn their Compostela, the certificate awarded in Santiago. If you are unprepared for this change, it can be jarring. The sudden contrast between the long-haul pilgrims, carrying the weight of hundreds of kilometers, and the newcomers, walking with lighter packs and fresh enthusiasm, can create tension. But the Camino belongs to everyone. If the crowds feel overwhelming, book accommodations in advance, set out early to find peaceful moments, or take a small detour to a less-traveled village. Most of all, practice patience, every pilgrim, no matter how far they have walked, has their own reason for being here.

As the number of pilgrims increases, so does the energy of the Camino. The atmosphere shifts from the quiet introspection of the earlier stages to something more social, sometimes even festive. Large groups walk together, chatting and laughing, stopping frequently at cafés along the way. The rhythm changes—faster, more animated, and for those who have been walking for weeks, sometimes harder to adapt to. There are also differences in how people experience this stretch. Many new pilgrims walk without full packs, using transport services to send their bags ahead. Some see the Camino as a historical trek, others as a religious pilgrimage, and some simply as an enjoyable walk through the Spanish countryside. While it may be frustrating at times to see the trail transformed in these final days, remember that everyone experiences the Camino in their own way. Some will take it seriously, others will not. That does not diminish your journey, nor does it take away from what you have achieved.

If you plan to receive your Compostela, the last 100 kilometers come with one additional requirement, you must collect two stamps per day in your pilgrim credential. These stamps, or sellos, serve as proof of your journey and can be found at cafés, albergues, churches, and even small roadside stands. Many pilgrims turn this into part of their daily routine, stopping for a coffee or a snack as an opportunity to add another stamp to their collection. It is a small but meaningful ritual, a final act of walking with intention, knowing that soon, you will arrive at the place where your journey will officially end.

Emotionally, these final days are some of the most complex on the Camino. There is excitement, Santiago is close now, the dream is almost real. But there is also sadness, the knowledge that this way of life, this rhythm of walking, eating, and resting, is coming to an end. Every step carries more weight, not because of physical exhaustion, but because each one brings you closer to finishing something that has become deeply personal. Some pilgrims intentionally slow down, savoring the last few days, taking extra breaks, walking shorter distances. Others speed up, eager to reach the finish line, unable to resist the pull of Santiago just ahead. There is no right or wrong way to handle these emotions, there is only your way. Walk in whatever way feels right to you.

Even for those who did not set out on the Camino for religious reasons, something often shifts in these last days. There is more reflection, more awareness of the significance of what you are doing. You hear more personal stories from other pilgrims, stories of grief, of transformation, of searching for something lost. Perhaps you find yourself stopping at more churches, lighting a candle, or sitting in silence for a few extra moments. The Camino has always been more than just a long-distance walk. It is an ancient pilgrimage, one that carries the weight of centuries of faith, history, and human longing. Whether or not you came here for spiritual reasons, it is difficult not to feel something in these final kilometers—a sense of connection, of purpose, of being part of something much larger than yourself.

Your last day of walking is different. The air feels heavier, charged with anticipation. The yellow arrows you have followed for so long now point toward an ending, and every step forward feels surreal. The climb to Monte do Gozo, once a place where medieval pilgrims wept upon seeing Santiago for the first time, is now a mix of reflection, excitement, and, inevitably, a few selfies. As you enter Santiago’s old town, the final streets feel unreal. After all these days, after all these miles, the moment you have imagined is finally here. And then, at last, you arrive at the Plaza del Obradoiro. The cathedral stands before you, towering, waiting. You have made it.

And yet, in that moment, something unexpected happens. Instead of feeling finished, you feel something else. Some pilgrims cry, overcome with emotion. Some laugh, arms around their Camino family. Others simply stand in silence, staring up at the cathedral, unsure what to feel. It is a moment too big to process all at once. The journey you have spent so much time walking toward is over. And now, the real question lingers, what now?

Many assume that reaching Santiago marks the end. But the Camino does not truly end here. Some pilgrims continue walking to Finisterre, drawn by the idea of reaching the edge of the world, where the land meets the sea. Others stay in Santiago for a few days, reluctant to step back into normal life. And many return home, only to realize that the Camino has followed them. Because this journey is not just about walking to Santiago, it is about what comes after. The lessons you have learned, the changes you have felt, the connections you have made, they do not disappear when you stop walking. The last 100 kilometers may feel like a final chapter, but in many ways, they are just the beginning of something much bigger.

Because the Camino does not stop when you take off your boots. It stays with you, in the way you see the world, in the friendships you have made, in the way you carry yourself each day. So walk these last days with open eyes, with an open heart, and with no rush to the finish line. Because when you finally stand in front of the cathedral, looking up at the place where so many have stood before you, you will understand.

The Camino never really ends.

Buen Camino.

Day 19 : Congosto —> Ponferrada

The last day of the Camino Olvidado. ~550km prescribed and I’ve waked 495km since May 1st.

On the Camino del Invierno, there are 266km from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. That makes a total of 761km. I start the Camino del Invierno tomorrow morning.

So today…

It was supposed to be a short down day of about 12km. Ended up being just under 15km about 9km on asphalt, 5km on a beautiful single track trail called Senda de Bas and two km in town on city streets.

We made excellent time of about 5kph on the first segment and 4kph on the remainder. We got into town just about 10am. Most of the day was walking through pine forests with aromatic flowers blooming – wild jasmine mostly – although there was a lot of wild lavender as well.

Today was a “down” day. We washed our clothes, fixed my phone – 😁 and saw the sights. I visited the Knights Templar Castle of Ponferrada- quite an impressive castle. We visited lots of bars and in general a low key day.

My impressions and opinion of the Camino Olvidado…

The Camino Olvidado is a beautiful trek through some remote country with lots of history and historical sights. The Camino infrastructure is lacking, which makes this a difficult Camino. There are many people who are trying to organize and build infrastructure but there’s a long way to go. It is certainly possible, but there’s really no comparison to other caminos as far as infrastructure. Some people want this type of Camino and it is therefore neither good nor bad – it’s just the way it is.

There are very few pilgrims on the Camino Olvidado. I met one – Paco – who’s backpack you see in some pictures. I heard of a few In front of us and a couple behind us. But didn’t see any others. It’s a rather solitary trip – again, neither good nor bad, that’s just the way it is.

The vistas and countryside are fabulous. Springtime on this route would be, in my opinion, is the best time to walk this route. The colors, fragrances, lack of rain, temperatures etc. would be difficult to beat.

One of the most impressive things I encountered on this Camino were the people. The locals willing to go out of their way to help a pilgrim are absolutely outstanding. These people help just because they are -real- people. They don’t expect anything in return, they are just down to earth good people.

Was this Camino what I imagined it would be? Yes and no. I imagined some solitude, the sights and remoteness of this Camino. I did not imaging how few other pilgrims I would encounter. I also didn’t imagine the degree to the lack of infrastructure.

All-in-all, for my gusto, this is near the top of the list for the caminos that I have been on and I am grateful for the opportunity to have been able to experience it.

Day 18 : Noceda del Bierzo —> Congosto

Today is the penultimate etapa for me on the Camino Olvidado. There are 22 etapas published, the last three head west to meet up with the Camino Frances in Villafranca (my favorite part of the Camino Frances). But I am headed south to Ponferrada tomorrow where I will cross the Camino Frances and start the Camino del Invierno – or the Winter route. This route was used in the winter (bet you didn’t guess that) when the high passes on the Camino Frances were snowed in. I’ll give final personal stats on the Camino Olvidado tomorrow when I complete it.

So with today’s etapa, as I mentioned yesterday, the etapa used (arguably still does) to go through Labaniego – where there are no services and just a shelter – less than an albergue. The locals decided to reroute the two etapas that finished and started in Labaniego so that they finished and started in Noceda. What this did was to cut 4km off yesterdays etapa and add about 6km to today’s etapa. We actually cut 5km off that by making our own alternate route so we came in at 20km door-to-door.

Today took us through coal mining villages where the mines have long since been abandon and are ghost complexes now. Trees are growing back where there was once bare rock and the mining facilities and equipment are overgrown and rusted.

We were treated to green pastures, oak and pine forests, babbling creeks, chaparral and some ups and downs. Most of the walking was on dirt roads with about 6km on asphalt. The hiking was rather pleasant overall with the chaparral being hot-hot and shadeless. Good thing as we got to the top of the climb, the breeze from the reservoir below hit us and cooled us off to a nice stroll down the hill through vineyards to the town of Congosto.

Tomorrow is a short day, only 12km or so, but that will give us kind of a down day and in a city with enough services to get my phone fixed (SIM card not working) and laundry done.

On to the pics…

Day 17 : Igüeña—> Noceda 14.3km

Today was almost a down day/recovery day. At just over 14km and rolling hills with only two climbs that got your heart pounding, it’s just what my feet were asking for.

Starting out at 0800, we had arranged for the owners of the bar/restaurant La Playa to open early and serve us a simple breakfast to get us on our way.

Before we knew it, we had hit two, then three km as we put one foot in front of the other. We then headed up the first climb – a series of climbs for about 2-3 km where we came to a broken cross.

The significance of the cross is that Almanzor – the Moor general of the 10th century wanted to destroy all signs of the pilgrimage to Santiago and thus destroyed ermitas, churches and Christian crosses all over northern Spain.

The modern day significance is purportedly similar to the Cruz de Fiero on the Camino Frances where pilgrims leave a rock at the base which signifies a burden that they have been carrying and leaving it at the cross takes that burden away. I didn’t notice any rocks at the base. I didn’t leave one. I didn’t even carry one. Although I have been carrying a yellow racquetball that I found on the street the second day of the camino in Güeñes.

The Camino today took us through rolling hills, oak woodlands, countryside, orchards and pastures. One orchard we walked through was a chestnut orchard which made my mouth water as I remembered the last time I had roasted chestnuts in Istanbul in 2015. 😋

This stage is normally from Igüeña to Labagniego but there is no Camino infrastructure there. So several years ago, a group of people interested in the Camino redirected the route through Noceda, and built an albergue from the old schoolhouse. Noceda has bars, cafes, restaurants, a pharmacy and the albergue. So it’s a better stop than Labagniego. The diversion happens just out of Quintana de Fuseros.

With this diversion tomorrow’s route to Congosto will be about 20km. You could do one long day of 34km if you are short on time, but after yesterdays tough climb, why not take a rest.

Day 16 : Fasgar—>Igüeña : Etapa Reina

Today was a short day – just over 18km. But in the first three km, we climbed 350m. That’s like climbing ~620 feet per mile (steeper that Wrights Lake Jerry).

Coming up to the summit called Collado de Campo at 1641m, we were presented with an indescribable view of the valley below called Campo de Santiago. Sheer rock cliffs to one side, emerald green pastures below and purple flowered covered mountains on the other side.

Looking at the valley below you wouldn’t even imagine that it is a graveyard of what is said to be 70,000 Moors. The legend has it that in 981CE, an apparition of Santiago appeared before the Spanish on the mountain sides and the Moors in the valley below on his white stallion and with a legion of angles behind him. This gave the Spaniards faith and resolve and scared the Moors. The end result is that that very few Moors escaped and the rest were killed.

This is just a fable and there are many competing stories about this battle. Here’s a link to an article that poses a couple of them to contemplate: https://www-viejocaminoolvidado-com.translate.goog/…/…

At the base of the valley, a hermitage was erected in remembrance of the battle and it has been rebuilt several times. The latest was built in the 19th century.

Following the river Boeza out of the valley for 15km – which is the headwaters, you could easily step across it – we were treated to countless waterfalls and natural springs feeding the river to a beautiful mountain water source and home to many trophy trout. It was difficult to get pictures of the river as the vegetation is so think.

Today was a foggy day in Fasgar and cloudy at the summit, clearing as we made our way down 700+ meters (2300’) in 15km. This trail was a single track trail for the most part which was carved out of the sides of the canyon. It’s been in use for more than 2000 years as a mountain pass between two fertile valleys connecting people which would normally take four days to go around the mountains.

The Camino Olvidado goes through many beautiful valleys and while there are alternate mountain routes that I did not follow, this by far was subjectively the most wild and natural etapa so far. It wasn’t an easy day by any means due to the elevation changes and technical nature of the trail, but it was one of the most rewarding.

Day 15: Vegarienza—>Fasgar

Fasgar is at the end of the road. Year round inhabitants are about 10. It’s mostly a vacation spot for hiking, mountain biking, fishing and escaping reality. Local economy is cows and horses (for meat).

Last night at the mouth of the Valle Gordo a storm came though and performed with heavy rain, lightning and thunder. It didn’t last long, or maybe I fell asleep during the storm. The results were that the farm tracks were impassible due to the amount of water, mud and wet. So today’s hike was 18km all on asphalt. Because this area is so remote as the high season has not yet started, any little towns we passed were mostly shuttered and had no services. We had to plan and bring food today’s and tomorrow’s meals – which added several kilos to the pack.

The day was mostly blustery and rain threatened but I was able to stay dry. In the morning the overcast made picture taking less than desirable but I did get some pictures later in the day.

The Valle Gordo is a beautiful valley and the hike was a constant upwards hike. Fasgar is situated at the end of the valley with a mountain pass on a single track headed out, up over the mountains to the south and into another valley – one of which has a huge historical story with Santiago (Saint James). I will tell you the story tomorrow, but from what I understand, he lived up to his name Santiago Matamoros.

The albergue here in Fasgar is clean, modern and well equipped, and run by a nice lady who we didn’t meet as she was up in the mountains. Not sure if she was leading a hike or just passing the day up there.

Pictures: few but nice scenery…

Day 14 – Etapa 16/17. La Robla —> Vegarienza

Last night in Canales- La Magdalena I stayed at a new albergue not listed in any of the guides. Six beds, clean, modern, hot water, kitchen, wash machine, etc. The only thing missing was wifi but the owners also own the Cafe Bar down the street and they have wifi there.

A couple of days ago I met another pilgrim – Paco – from near Barcelona. He’s an avid walker and has done many Caminos. We walked together for 18km or so. I’m going to wait for him to catch up in the morning so we will walk 18km together tomorrow as well.

This is where the days on the Camino and the Etapas diverge. Today’s etapa was 18km. I went 28km today. I’ll have an 18km day tomorrow instead of 28km – I’m ok with that.

Today was a -tough- day. I think mostly because I’m fairly exhausted. But six climbs of over 100m and three of those combined for a total ascent of 400m in 4km will do it too.

Most of today’s hike was off road. Farm track and single track. Some of which were probably Roman roads at one time but since overgrown so difficult to tell. It rained on me the last 4km, but it was a light rain and I am really no wetter than if it was sunny outside and I sweat.

For the next 40km, there are no stores or places to eat. So one thing I ended up doing was buying food for the next two days – although I am eating a great home-cooked meal at Maxi’s right now.

The little hamlet maybe less than a dozen houses here in Vegarienza is along the bank of the river Omaña – a famous trout river here in Spain. It was quite evident by all of the fisherman trying to outsmart the trout. There is one albergue which used to be a move the Casa Médica but because of the pandemic has moved down the block. It’s an old house with creaky floors and doors that get stuck – but it’s right next to the river so the sound of the rushing water will surely lull me to sleep tonight.

The community of Vegarienza is united in their concern for the continued vitality of this town. Estela who runs the albergue retired from Madrid after she moved there when she was 19 after growing up here. She’s a sweat lady who was surprised that I gave her 20€ for the night at the albergue. It’s donativo with a minimum of 8€. I have the whole alberguento myself so it’s like a private room.

It was a tough but good day on the Camino today.

I didn’t take too many pics as it was a tough hike a bit here are some…

Day 13 : etapa 14A – La Robla —> La MagdalenaDay 13 : etapa 14A –

Just over 16km today. that’s almost a day off. Except for the 250m climb out and a steep 250m descent dividing the day in half.

I slept in today. Well not really. I woke to my neighbor’s snoring around 0500hrs this morning. Woke up to street noise at 0600 and then just putzed around for a while. I ended up leaving at 0900 and rolled in to La Magdalena at 1300.

The route was nice the best part I think was from about 10km-14km. Nice shaded overgrown farm track that ended up being a nice single track path.

Again, the season is perfect in this area – springtime brings emerald greens, a cacophony of colors if you will, with the wildflower blooms, young calves and foals and soft but not muddy trails.

Today wasn’t a real good day for pictures (hazy valley and flies kept me moving) so not many were taken.

One thing I noticed, even though this was a short day, it doesn’t matter how long of a day you have, the last two kilometers are so tiring. Arrival at the cafe/bar is always accompanied by sore feet.

The next several stages are difficult ones. Not for distance or terrain, but for Camino infrastructure. What I have read and what I have been told is that I will have to carry food for the next 2-3 days. There are places to eat on the way and some stores, but if they are not hit at the right time, you’re out of luck.

I have called ahead three days now and verified the albergues are open and “reserved” a bed by giving them my name – not that they wrote it down. Later tonight I will go to the grocery store and find the right food for BLD for a few days. I have to balance volume, weight, ease of preparation, etc. (even though they just rolled a keg of beer into the pub and however much I’d like to take it, that is just not an option).

There are seven etapas left on the Camino Olvidado until it hits the Camino Frances. I have three of those days dialed in. We will see what happens after that.

Talking to an Australian pilgrim last night – she said her friend is currently ”touring” the Camino Frances. The word is that due to the pandemic, not all albergues have reopened and are charging double what they did pre-pandemic. Not only that but due to the scarcity of beds, pilgrims are reserving beds three and four days in advance. I hope that’s not the case – I don’t like having an agenda on the Camino. But if it ends up being that way, well… it really doesn’t matter. The Camino is and the Camino provides.

Like I said, I didn’t take a lot of pictures…

Day 12 : Etapa 13A – Boñar -> La Robla

Today was one of those days where I didn’t want to get out of bed. But it was a 33.4km day today. Luckily it was mostly flat. There is a variant of this route that takes three days while the A route takes two days. The B variant today goes through the mountains and To tell the truth, I just wasn’t up for it. A total elevation change of almost 2200m. The B variant was also what I had originally planned to do as there is a trail through rocky craigs. I sat at the intersection for a good 10-15 minutes contemplating which way I should go. I ended up taking the A variant.

So – the A variant: it was 33.4km, 10 on farm track, 10km through little towns on asphalt or concrete and 13km on highways.

There were not a lot of historical items to visit, but there were some. So it was basically walking through much of the same as the past few days.

For about 10km towards the end, there were some beautiful farm track roads with everything budding out in its springtime glory. The wildflowers were in bloom, the grasses were emerald green, the trees were in varying stages of budding out. It was beautiful. The one drag is that this is pasture land too and where there are pastures, there are flies. And these little suckers swarm your face and like to land on my glasses. Inhaling them is always of concern.

The highway walking was tough, this wasn’t a country road, but more like a two lane state highway – at least there was a shoulder.

It rained on and off today but not really enough to get me wet – at least not wetter than my sweat. I opted to cover the pack and pack my rain coat at I would have been wetter with the raincoat on than with it off.

This morning I met another pilgrim in Boñar at the cafe. We chatted a little and then he left. I never saw him in the trail, although there were many places where the rain hadn’t washed out the fresh footprints.

This afternoon, I met a couple of pilgrims headed to Oviedo. It looks like this town is a crossroads of multiple ways.

Today was pretty evenly divided in three by towns with bars in them. The first on I rolled into at 10:00, the bars were closed. Just at the dar side of town I heard a blaring horn blasting several times. It ended up being the bread delivery so I waited by the side of the road and bought some bread to eat on the trail. That made me happy 😊

Summary:

While the last 10km of was really beautiful, it was a long haul and I probably would have enjoyed 13B better but I was just not in the mood. Rain, mountains and me not knowing the area made me chose the valley route for safety. I probably would have been fine – I definitely would have done the mountain route if I had someone with me.

A good day on the Camino

Day 11 : Etapa 12A – Cistierna -> Boñar

Yesterday I took the train from Cervera de Pisuerga to Cistierna due to a lack of lodging for the next three days between the two. So, starting today from Cistierna…

Today was 28ish KM. I am impressed at the quality and quantity of signage in this area. Not only are there yellow arrows pointing the way, there are yellow crosses telling you which ways not to go and reminder arrows to just to let you know you’re still on the right track – even though there weren’t any side trails.

In addition to the yellow arrows, there are full-blown signs explaining the Camino, maps demonstrating different options, how far, how much elevation gain, etc.

You will also find anecdotal stories along 12A of how the original pilgrims and settlers lived along the route.

Another thing I noticed, is that the villages take pride in being on the Camino and make sure their trails are maintained, signage is clear and welcoming/send-off signage is there.

I also share these posts to a Camino group and many have said that when I get to León, things will improve as far as infrastructure. So far that is the case.

Let me be clear though – this is my fourth Camino and while I don’t walk it for a pilgrimage to see Saint James’ tomb, I do do it for personal pilgrimages of sorts. I don’t expect every Camino to go smoothly. In fact, I expect challenges to be had and I look forward to them as a personal test of sorts. Walking the Camino Olvidado has been challenging but it has not been a bad experience – I appreciate everything it has given me and I look forward to what it has in store for me tomorrow and the next few weeks.

So… now on to today:

27.7km +/- my watch battery died and I lost the last couple of KMs walking into Boñar. Due to the angle of the sun, I walked mostly in the shade except the last 7-10km. My calves got a little red.

The wildflowers were out in force – beautiful colors and shapes, Gaia has a way of putting all of these colors in perfect arrangement to share the beauty of them with us.

While there is a total of just over 900m total elevation gain, you really don’t notice it as it is so gradual and the country side is so beautiful through oak forests that you just walk right up it. Only in one or two places did I notice it where I put my trekking poles into low gear and my heart pounded.

After the climb, I followed a ridge for about 7-10km of mostly sparse oak and chaparral with wildflowers. Just before the decent into the valley, there were some pine trees that offered a nice place to take a nap – so I did.

Once in the valley, another 10km or so to Boñar through villages, pasture and rolling hills. This was where the sun was out in force and there was little shade. By the end, it was pretty warm. I took advantage of the village fountains to wash my face of sweat and salt so it didn’t get into my eyes.

Many little parochial Romanesque churches, bridges and even a Roman road post – and I thought I was on a farm track.

I am staying in a hostal that is run by a venerable matriarch, who takes the proceeds and takes care of elderly without resources.

Today was a good day on the Camino. Much gratitude to those that make it work…

Now for the pics…