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This day marked the final day of my Camino journey—or as the saying goes, “Your Camino truly begins when you arrive in Santiago.” It’s a phrase often met with skepticism, but after completing this pilgrimage six times, totaling more than 5,400 kilometers and over 7 million steps, I can confidently say that the real growth happens in reflecting on those kilometers traveled. Now, six weeks later, I’m writing this with fresh perspective and a mix of experiences—some I’ll share, and others that will remain mine alone. But first, let’s talk about the walk.

The day was split between two worlds: half spent on soft forest paths, the other on asphalt as the city loomed closer. The peaceful forest stretches invited introspection, my thoughts meandering like the trail itself. Then, as the rural turned urban, my focus shifted to navigating Santiago’s outskirts, a growing buzz of anticipation propelling me forward.

Admittedly, that excitement got the better of me. I sped up, leaving Luis behind—an oversight that brought its own lesson. While I waited for him at the entrance to the Casco Viejo, where the cathedral resides, I realized I’d pushed too hard, upsetting the balance of our shared journey. It was a humbling moment, one that required introspection and acknowledgment in the days that followed. All was resolved eventually, but it’s a reminder: the Camino teaches as much about patience and connection as it does about endurance.

Arriving at the cathedral’s plaza was a mix of celebration and camaraderie. Pilgrims from all walks of life gathered, greeting friends and savoring the shared accomplishment of a lifetime. Under partly cloudy skies and a blessed lack of rain, the plaza brimmed with joy. Contact information was exchanged, tearful goodbyes were said, and the Camino worked its magic once again, forging bonds that will last a lifetime.

After a couple of days in Santiago, we ventured to the coast—Muxia specifically—before returning to Santiago for one last evening of bar-hopping, Orujo tasting, and last-minute shopping. From there, it was on to Lisbon for our flights home.

This Camino was unlike any of my others. The reasons I embarked on it weren’t entirely my own; I walked for someone and with someone. Yet, as the Camino often does, it became deeply personal. No matter the reasons you start, the Camino finds a way to touch your soul. It was as much my journey as it was for the important people in my life.

Galicia’s Celtic heritage added a layer of mysticism to this pilgrimage. Known as one of the seven Celtic nations, its land is steeped in ancient beliefs, including the concept of ley lines—energetic pathways that, where they intersect, are thought to hold extraordinary spiritual power. Muxia, believed to be one such powerful conjunction, held special significance for me this time. Unlike my 2015 visit, which felt more like sightseeing, this visit carried the weight of nine years of growth and deeply personal experiences.

Sitting on the rocks in Muxia, meditating and contemplating life, I was overcome with a profound sense of peace—akin to moments I’ve experienced in meditation or altered states. This calm, a gift from the ley lines and the Camino itself, remains with me even now. It has allowed me to truly “begin my Camino” in Santiago, embracing the journey that lies ahead with an open heart and a peaceful mind.

Walking the Camino with my brother-in-law, Luis, was an experience that deepened my respect and love for him in ways I couldn’t have anticipated. Luis is a man of quiet strength, a steady presence who approaches life with a unique blend of humility and wisdom. Sharing this journey with him was both an honor and a privilege. His ability to face challenges with grace and his unwavering support throughout the walk made our time together unforgettable. There was a profound sense of camaraderie in our shared steps, laughter, and conversations. Walking alongside Luis reminded me of the importance of family and connection, and I’ll always treasure the bond we strengthened on this pilgrimage. To share this sacred path with someone so special was, truly, a gift.

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We left Caldas de Reis under a light drizzle—not quite rain, but the kind that sneaks up on you. Had it lingered, we’d have been as soaked as if it had poured all day. Luckily, it fizzled out before drenching us. The path out of town crossed a river and passed by public hot springs and fountains, places where people once gathered to bathe in days gone by. The town’s name, Caldas de Reis, roughly translates to “Hot Springs of the Kings,” a nod to the royalty who once flocked here for a bit of thermal relaxation.

As we left the town behind, the Camino treated us to peaceful country dirt roads and mountain trails—a welcome break after over 500 kilometers of asphalt since Lisbon. These are my favorite parts of the Camino: forested paths, quiet mountain trails, and a chance to truly connect with the journey. Though the trail was still busy with other pilgrims, we were lucky to enjoy stretches of solitude. For brief, blissful moments, there wasn’t another soul in sight or earshot—just us and the serenity of nature.

On the way to Padrón, we stopped at a café to rest, and there he was—an elderly gentleman with a twinkle in his eye, selling Camino shell pendants. He had the gift of the gab, charming a crowd of women as he extolled the virtues of his pendants. In the half-hour I sat watching, he sold at least 20 or 30 of them. Naturally, I couldn’t resist—I bought two!

With tomorrow being our last day on the Camino proper, we decided to get an early celebration in. We splurged on dinner at a fancy parilla-style restaurant. It wasn’t a full-fledged fine dining spot, but it ticked all the boxes for hunger and celebration. The food was satisfying, and the occasion felt just right.

As we approached Padrón, memories from my last visit here nine years ago in 2017 began flooding back—where I stayed, where I ate, and the people I was with. The sights brought back a mix of joy and melancholy, a bittersweet reminder of how time reshapes the familiar. These reflections added a nostalgic layer to the day, making it all the more meaningful.

Tomorrow, the final stretch awaits. Santiago is almost within reach.

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Another day, another donning of the rain gear as we left Pontevedra. It was clear the weather wasn’t going to cut us any slack. Walking in the rain with glasses is its own special brand of challenge: leave them on, and they fog up so badly you can’t see. Take them off, and—well, you still can’t see. Let’s just say the day’s views were a bit blurry for me, literally and figuratively.

The rain didn’t stop at my glasses; my hands became so waterlogged that my phone refused to recognize my fingers. Communicating with Luis turned into a game of voice-command roulette. Siri became our intermediary, but with multiple languages set on our devices, Siri had no clue what we were saying half the time. The results? Pure comedy. Mis-translated messages had us scratching our heads at first, but we soon learned to just laugh it off. Nothing like Siri to keep things interesting on the Camino!

At one point, the crowds separated us by more than a kilometer. When I finally reached Caldas de Reis, I found a café and waited for an hour, only to discover Luis had already passed me! He grumbled as he backtracked, and we reunited over lunch and some much-needed “liquid nutrients.” From our café perch, we people watched— all different types of people: pilgrims, locals, and tourists as they wove through the streets.

With just a few blocks left to walk, we weren’t in any rush, especially since we had reservations at a spa that evening. The spa, or balneario, was perched right on the river, with my room offering a view straight down into the rushing water. We spent the evening soaking up the comfort: hanging out at the bar, doing some laundry, and fully embracing the art of relaxation.

With only two days left to Santiago, the mixed emotions started to creep in. We were both thrilled and melancholic, excited yet reflective. Thrilled to be nearing the end, but sad that this incredible journey was wrapping up. Excited to see what revelations the Camino might bring in the coming weeks and months, but at peace knowing the memories we’d already made would stay with us forever.

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Redondela is a bustling junction where several Camino routes converge from the south, and being about 100 kilometers from Santiago, it attracts a steady stream of pilgrims. Translation: it’s a bit of a pedestrian traffic jam! Picture a constant flow of walkers, chatting away in groups of four or five, completely blocking the trail. Navigating this gauntlet wasn’t exactly easy, especially for someone like me who prefers a more introspective pilgrimage. Don’t get me wrong—I enjoy a good Camino chat, but there’s a time and a place for socializing.

And then, there was the rain. Oh, the rain! It poured all day, soaking us right down to our bones. I had two layers of rain gear, and my backpack was triple-protected—it stayed dry (thankfully), but I was a walking puddle. My main strategy was simple: escape the crowds. Spoiler alert: the crowds were relentless. At every village, I hoped for a cozy café to dry off and warm up, but the cafés were packed to the brim with other waterlogged pilgrims. With their doors wide open and soaked patrons shedding rain everywhere, it was just as wet inside as out. So much for drying off.

By the time we finished the day’s trek, we decided we’d earned a little comfort. We booked a hotel for some much-needed relief—warm showers, adjustable heat, and, most importantly, space to spread out and actually dry off. After a long, wet slog, it felt like pure luxury. Sometimes, you’ve got to treat yourself, especially on a day like today!