With the extra down time, and the firm return dates, we have to be flexible with how we approach the Camino. Today’s stage was to walk 24km but 11 of them were leaving the city and that’s never pleasant. We took a bus instead and then walked the 24km to Vila do Conde. We can then walked 24km tomorrow and be caught up.
The forecast was for rain today. The forecast said severe weather today. Severe weather said thread to life. It drizzled on us all day. So while it wasn’t a treat to life, we did get soaked. Mostly my feet since I am walking in sandals and didn’t bring another pair of shoes with me. Now we are waiting for an old and tired drier to dry the socks…
Most of today was on boardwalk next to the beach which was quite a refreshing change from the Camino de Fatima where it was mostly asphalt. Whole on the CdF, we saw perhaps six other pilgrims, today there were dozens. Many got turned away from the public albergue, but there are a lot of beds in Vila do Conde.
With the cooler temperatures and the flexibility of the boardwalk, today was a breeze. We finished the 24km in six hours are not aching.
We arrived an hour before the albergue opened so we went to eat lunch and then wait in line for the albergue to open. Now that we are settled, we will be heading out to find the nearest pub.
Side note (based on a true story, embellishments added for entertainment)
At the youth hostel, Luis Armando was making his bed and found stuffed next to the mattress a turquoise thong, holding it up with two fingers and a bewildered look on his face like a strange treasure. We all stared for a second trying to figure out what it was before bursting into laughter. “Which one of the girls do you think left it there?” someone asked, and the speculation began. Was it a prank? A mix-up? Luis just shook his head, looking half amused, half horrified. Then, with a sly grin, one of us said, “Well, are you gonna try it on?” The room burst into laughter. I’m still not sure what he did with it.
Our trip to Fátima was mostly for Mimi. Her faith was unwavering, and one of her biggest wishes was to visit Fátima, attend mass, and take part in the Catholic rituals at this holy site. We timed our stay to coincide with her birthday, and thanks to Luis Armando, she was able to experience it all in spirit.
We added an extra day to our stay to make the trip more special. That extra day was supposed to be a time to rest our legs, but somehow we still ended up walking more than 10km!
Fátima itself has grown around the sanctuary, with plenty of trinket shops and touristy restaurants lining the streets. If that’s your thing, you’ll be happy. But beyond the holy site, the town felt pretty ordinary, at least from what we saw.
Now, here’s something we didn’t expect—a Sunday spectacle! Thousands of motorcyclists from all over Europe rolled into Fátima for the blessing of the helmets. The town was filled with the rumble of engines and the buzz of excitement. While it was a fascinating event to witness, it did cause a bit of a traffic mess. Our bus to Porto arrived forty minutes late, but honestly, it was a great chance to people-watch and admire the variety of motorcycles.
The two-hour bus ride to Porto gave us a glimpse of the areas affected by recent wildfires. Thankfully, while the fires were fierce, they didn’t scorch the land as intensely as those we’ve seen in California. In Portugal, most of the damage stayed at ground level, with the eucalyptus and pine trees standing tall, a hopeful sign for quick recovery.
Once we reached Porto, we checked into our hostel—only to find our reservation a little mixed up. No worries though, they had us sorted by the next night. After that, we set off to explore the city! Our first stop was the riverfront, and we crossed the bridge to the Sandeman Port Winery to see if we could catch a tour. Unfortunately, they were all booked up for the day, but we didn’t mind. We secured a spot for the next day’s Old Tawny tour, and it turned out to be a highlight. We tasted some incredibly rich 10, 20, 30, and even 40-year-old tawnies while learning about the port-making process.
The rest of the day was spent leisurely wandering the city, taking in the sights and atmosphere. Before we knew it, it was time for dinner and a good night’s sleep—because on Tuesday, we’d be walking again!
We drifted off, not a care in the world—well, except for wondering how much rain might fall on us the next day.
Sleeping in a bell tower—now that’s one of those ideas that sounds charming, like something out of a travel brochure. In reality, though, it’s about as restful as trying to nap in the middle of a construction site, but with more bells, cats, and random acts of chaos.
Let me set the stage. This particular bell tower had a clock that believed time was more of an artistic suggestion than a hard rule. So instead of chiming on the hour like a normal bell, this one preferred to surprise you. One minute, it’s eerily silent, and the next it’s blasting out an off-key GONG that rattles your bones and makes you question all your life choices. It got so bad, I started flinching every time the wind moved, just waiting for the next random cacophony.
Now, as if that wasn’t enough to keep things lively, the bell tower also came with its very own pair of local cats. And not the kind that curl up and purr on your lap, no sir. These were highly trained, professional rat assassins, and they had decided tonight was the night to wage their final battle. Just as I was about to doze off, I’d hear the rapid-fire skittering of paws as they launched their nightly raid. Every so often, there’d be a loud thud, a sharp squeak, and then the sound of a cat tearing off like it was chasing its prey straight into another dimension. If you’ve never had a two-cat demolition derby play out above your head while trying to sleep, I highly recommend it if you’re hoping to go insane.
Of course, all of this is happening while I’m crammed into a bed that was clearly designed for someone about three feet shorter than me. Every time I stretched out, my toes dangled off the end like they were making a desperate bid for freedom. I tried curling up, scrunching into the fetal position, and even lying diagonally, but none of it worked. Eventually, I gave up and let my feet hang off the edge, where they could periodically slap the cold stone floor like some sort of sad, rhythmic protest against my poor life decisions.
Just as I thought I’d found the least uncomfortable position possible, the bell tower decided it had been too quiet for too long. With no warning whatsoever, it let loose a blast so off-key, so aggressive, I thought for sure it was trying to murder me. The cats, already in full pursuit of their rodent foes, took this as their cue to shift into high gear. I swear they hit warp speed, zooming around the room like tiny, furry missiles.
Meanwhile, my feet were still tapping the floor as if trying to send Morse code for help. But I wasn’t going anywhere, because I was trapped—trapped between a tower with a bell that had lost all concept of time, two cats reenacting the Fast and Furious, and a bunk bed that clearly had it out for me.
In the morning, as I peeled myself out of bed, I realized two things. One: I had survived the night. And two: The bells? They didn’t even ring when they were supposed to. Of course not.
Enough about the bell tower and cats…
Today from Monsanto to Fatima was about 25 km. Now normally 25km is about the perfect distance… in cool, flat terrain. Well, today was hot and hilly, through much of the same loos rock and boulders that we experienced the day before. About half of the trail was like this and the other half, asphalt.
We met our first pilgrim – Sandra from Austria. We walked and talked for hours and enjoyed company with her. We then all went to dinner in Fatima and said our goodbyes. That’s the way of the Camino. We might see her again here in Fatima, but likely not, and tomorrow our Camino’s diverge once again as we skip ahead to Oporto due to time and fires.
Santarém sits on a defensible hill, surrounded by walls and natural bluffs that have protected it through centuries of conflict between the Moors, Romans, Portuguese, and others. It was the perfect spot for a layover.
Today, we picked up the Camino again. For the past few days, we’ve been following both the Camino de Santiago (yellow arrows) and the Camino de Fátima (blue arrows). Now, the paths diverge, and we’ll be following the blue arrows.
Today’s journey is 35 kilometers, taking us to the town of Monsanto, and for the first time, we encountered some real trails and hills. The morning started off with perfect hiking weather, gradually warming up to the mid-70s. Without much shade, it felt hotter, but still manageable.
The first 24 kilometers were mostly asphalt, and the last stretch, about 8 kilometers, led us through oak and eucalyptus forests. We tackled two climbs, each about 250 meters of elevation over 2-3 kilometers. The terrain was rocky and challenging, with loose stones and narrow passages through chaparral. It was tough but worth it—though the views from the top were hidden by fog, which, in a way, was a blessing, offering a cool break from the heat.
We passed rolling hills and farms, with bell peppers growing all around. I couldn’t resist grabbing one—it was juicy and delicious. Fresh produce straight from the source is unbeatable. We also came across fig trees, their sweet aroma inviting us to pick and enjoy them. Naturally, I obliged.
Around the 32-kilometer mark, I made a sudden turn and started heading down the hill we had been climbing. Tio wasn’t thrilled, but I had a good reason: there was a river below with a dam, a swimming hole, and picnic tables. I was determined to take a dip and cool off.
Normally, I might not have done this, but for the last six weeks, I’d been swimming with a friend in our local river, and the thought of jumping into this one was too tempting. The water was crystal clear, and we could see trout and whitefish swimming around us. The cold felt amazing on our legs after such a long walk. After drying off, we climbed back up the hill and continued to Monsanto.
Our albergue for the night was in a clock tower, where we were frequently reminded of the time—mostly because the clock needed resetting to be accurate! Thankfully, the bells weren’t loud enough to wake us, but if we were already awake, they definitely made themselves heard.
Normally, the walk from Lisbon to Santarém takes about three days and covers 90 kilometers. However, the first few days on any Camino tend to be the hardest as your body gets used to the physical demands of the trek. While that was a consideration, the main reason we decided to skip ahead a day was because of the wildfire smoke and heat. Even though the plumes were high, the smell of smoke filled the air, which meant there were particulates floating around. And honestly, I’d rather not be breathing in toxic air while hiking in the heat!
Instead, we took the opportunity to enjoy a rest day in Santarém and explore the town. It’s a lively place thanks to the polytechnic college, though the population is only around 30,000. We wandered around, ate some great food, checked off a few chores, and just enjoyed the rhythm of the day. It was a good, laid-back day.
The forecast for Day Two was in the low 90s. We had two options: a 20km hike or a 34km one. We decided to keep our plans flexible.
The route from Vila Franca da Xira to Azambuja was 20km, mostly on asphalt—probably 70-80%—with the rest on dirt roads. It was completely flat and entirely exposed, with no shade.
The day started off cool, around 68°F, but the heat quickly ramped up. At about 16km into the hike, we considered pushing on to the next albergue, another 13km away, since we were feeling pretty good. But then the heat really hit, and before I knew it, Luis Armando was out of sight. At the edge of Azambuja, I found a small patch of shade near some bamboo and waited for him. When he caught up, we both realized we were exhausted from the heat. Since it was still early and the albergue wasn’t open yet, we decided to grab lunch. Unfortunately, the flies were all over the tuna lasagna, making the meal less than enjoyable, but I ate what I could.
Throughout the day, every place we stopped had the TV on, showing news of wildfires about 150-200km to the north. Though the fires were far from us, we could smell the smoke as the plume passed overhead.
With the high temperatures, smoke in the air, and more heat forecast for the following day, we decided to take the train to Santarém, giving ourselves a rest day to do laundry and explore the town.
On the train, I managed to find some seats, facing three ladies who seemed to be enjoying their peaceful ride. As I hoisted my pack up to the overhead storage, disaster struck—my water bottle slipped out, and wouldn’t you know it, it smacked one of them right on the knee before bouncing to the floor.
In a heroic attempt to help, she bent down to pick it up. Unfortunately, what neither of us realized was that the top had broken during the fall, and the bottle was now basically an open faucet. Water sprayed everywhere—on her, on me, and all over the seats I had just claimed.
Luis Armando, blissfully unaware of the chaos, turned around just in time to witness the aftermath—the confusion, the soaked seats, and the ladies trying not to laugh. That was it, the perfect icebreaker. Soon, we were deep in conversation with the three women, who, it turned out, were elementary school teachers heading home to Santarém after a long day at work.
What started as a water bottle disaster ended up as the beginning of a delightful chat. It’s funny how a little chaos can bring people together!
Leaving Lisbon for the first stage is always tough. If you choose to hike it, it’s an 8-12km stretch through some rough parts of the city and industrial areas. I’ve done it before and wasn’t keen on doing it again, especially with the forecast calling for 95°F and the entire stage being 34km. So, we decided to take the train to Sacavém, where a new pedestrian bridge has been built since I last walked this route. As a result, much of today’s walk was new to me.
This stage doesn’t pass through many towns but instead follows a 22km boardwalk and gravel trail through wetlands, where we saw an abundance of waterfowl.
We arrived in Vila Franca da Xira without any issues, though we were completely exhausted from the heat after covering 28km.
The direct flight from San Francisco to Lisboa was smooth and straightforward. I was only carrying a 10kg backpack, which seemed to surprise the gate agents. The plane was packed, with just a couple of babies who occasionally got fussy. Interestingly, the mom and kids were in economy while the dad was seated in first class. He only came back to let the mom take a bathroom break. Go figure…
I arrived in Lisbon three hours before Luis Armando, so I spent that time people-watching, always a fun way to pass the time. Once Luis Armando arrived, we took the metro, and 30 easy minutes later, we were at our hostel, the Lisbon Lounge.
The city was alive with a mix of languages, though most conversations were in either English or Spanish. We met travelers from Latin America—Mexico, Guatemala, Argentina, Colombia, Bolivia—as well as people from France, Ukraine, the U.S., and Spain. Most were in their 20s to 40s, but there were also retirees and younger students adding to the diversity.
Day 1: Alfama and the Castle of San Jorge
On our first day, we explored Alfama, famous for its food, architecture, and the iconic Castle of San Jorge. Walking up to the castle was a great way to stretch our legs after the long flight. The buildings were adorned with Moorish tiles, and the streets were made of smooth cobblestones. If walking wasn’t your thing, the trolley system was always an option to get up the hill.
The Castle of San Jorge is a beautifully preserved example of Moorish architecture. It’s a reminder of the violence humans have inflicted on each other over the centuries, though it’s hard to believe we now live in a much more peaceful world.
Lisbon, with its bay and the river Tejo, reminded me of San Francisco. Crossing the river is a suspension bridge, much like the Golden Gate. The weather is warmer, but the ecosystem is surprisingly similar—oak forests and golden rolling hills.
Day 2: Sintra
On our second day, we left early for Sintra, the former summer retreat of Portuguese royalty. Built on a mountain, Sintra is home to forests, castles, palaces, and lush gardens.
A 40-minute train ride took us up about 500 feet to the town of Sintra, which reminded me of Taxco, Mexico—an ancient town clinging to a steep mountainside. We walked 2.5 miles from the train station, gaining another 1,000 feet in elevation, and explored hidden gardens, rock formations, secret homes tucked away from palace life, and forests filled with trees from around the world—including giant sequoias and coastal redwoods from Oregon and California, some 200-300 years old.
The Palacio da Pena is incredibly popular, and entry times are strictly controlled. We arrived at 9:30 am and found the line manageable, though once inside, the palace was crowded, making it hard to take in all the details. The palace is a blend of architectural styles—Moorish, monastic, and royal—each era leaving its mark on the structure. The grandeur was overwhelming, though, as expected, there was little mention of the people who kept it all running behind the scenes.
After leaving the palace, we wandered down through the forest, taking in the serene beauty of the surroundings. I got a bit carried away, choosing the scenic path at every turn, which extended our walk a little longer than planned. By the time we reached the town for lunch, around 11:30, the restaurants hadn’t opened yet, but the wait was worth it. I had bacalhau (codfish) baked to a crisp in a slightly sweet glaze—easily the best meal I’ve had in Portugal so far.
In the afternoon, we explored a whimsical four-hectare garden created by an eccentric man who loved rituals and games. The garden was filled with wells and rock formations concealing secret entrances to tunnels. You could disappear around a corner and end up in a Templar ritual site or evade prying eyes while sneaking off with your buddies.
Despite the number of visitors, the garden felt peaceful, filled with birdsong and the sounds of the forest. The only real lines were at the entrance and for the most famous attraction—a spiral staircase that descends into the earth, connecting with the underground tunnel system.
Day 3: E-Scooters to Belém
For our final day, we decided to head to Belém, about 10-12km from Lisbon, along the coast. Instead of taking the metro or trolley, we opted for e-scooters. After a thrilling 40-minute ride, we arrived at the Monument to Vasco da Gama, who set sail from here in search of a westward route to India, accidentally discovering Brazil along the way. The monument is a modern, concrete structure vaguely resembling a ship’s bow, with Vasco da Gama and his crew looking out toward the unknown.
[EDIT: I have been corrected and educated by a wonderful waitress.
Portuguese explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral was the first European to discover Brazil on April 22, 1500. He landed on the coast of what is now the state of Bahia, claiming the territory for Portugal under the Treaty of Tordesillas, which divided newly discovered lands between Portugal and Spain. However, indigenous peoples had inhabited the region for thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans.]
Our next stop was a small fortress on the riverfront, built to defend Lisbon. Unfortunately, when the time came, it fell to the Spanish in just a few hours.
Finally, we visited the monastery where Vasco da Gama’s remains are buried. The line to enter was wrapped around the block, so we chose to visit the Maritime Museum instead. It’s clear that the Portuguese are immensely proud of their history of exploration and colonization, though there’s little mention of the darker aspects, like slavery and oppression. It reminded me of how Spain and the U.S. often gloss over similar parts of their histories.
When I started walking the caminos back in 2015, I had no idea that it was a life-long dream of my sister-in-law to also walk the Camino. She was a person of great faith and followed me through my journeys as she was unable to walk a Camino herself. As I happened upon religious sites and events on the various Caminos, she would want to know all about them and my experiences. This is one very personal thing that we shared together, even though our faith and belief in God couldn’t be more different.
For 17 years, she fought with cancer. This past June, her suffering ended as she passed away. Her husband and I will be traveling this year in her memory and taking a lock of her hair along with us. We will attempt to get a Compostela in her name. Because of her strong faith, we decided to take the Portuguese route from Lisboa to Fatima so that she could be present in spirit there with us. We will then continue on the Camino to Santiago, and then on to Muxia and Finestere. It will be a mixed trip of walking and bus travel due to available time.
This year you ask? When exactly? Well, we leave on Wednesday, September 11th. Many people have asked for me to write about the journey. I wrote about my Camino this past April, but I did not publish it. Because there are two of us, and we will be sharing with family, I expect to post fairly often on this trip.
I’m a techie… been in IT for almost 40 years now. Tracking stats, maps, and things are all fun things for me. They aren’t for everyone, and that’s OK. Everyone has their own Camino and one is no better than another. I have always used tech on my Caminos. Researching, mapping, GPS tracks, health and distance stats, etc. Many ask which tools to use, and there are as many tools and ways to use them as there are Caminos. But here’s what I have used and what I like…
Fitness Tracker
I use an iPhone 13 Plus and Apple Watch Ultra 2. They just work. I particularly like that all of my files, photos, and information I use on a day-to-day basis is automatically backed up to the cloud and synced on all of my devices. If I lose my phone, I haven’t lost any data, and I can be up and running as soon as I replace it. The one thing I don’t like about my Apple Watch is that if its misting outside, or because I am a surdo (left-handed), buttons or the screen get pushed/tapped and stop my workouts and tracking. I have just recently found a way to overrule this – put the watch in “Water Lock” mode where it locks the screen and buttons so they can’t be inadvertently tapped or pushed. I think this will solve my problem.
Mapping Software
Gaia Pro
MapMyFitness
As for software for fitness tracking, I use MapMyFitness by Underarmor. I have used many others, but have settled on MapMyFitness. There’s not really anything I like about it more than the others, they are all underwhelming – that is to say, I haven’t found anything better about any of the others to make me want to change and lose my history, or have to migrate my history.
For generic mapping software, I use GaiaPro. This is a pretty advanced application that has a myriad of map styles and sources to choose from. There are even base hiking maps with the Camino routes already on them. Standard features are routing, off-line maps, route tracking, photo insertion, etc. I also use it for other things like my CritterCam projects with the California State Parks.
Gronze.Com
Gronze.com is an online mapping tool that is specific to the Camino. It’s in Spanish/Castellano, and has the official routes documented. I primarily use it for the other information it contains, which I will talk about later.
Google Maps. I use google maps whenever I am overseas, as I find that it has the best/most accurate database of businesses, transit, etc. that I might need while I am traveling. I like Apple Maps better, but it’s not as good as Google Maps overseas.
WikiLoc
Wikiloc – this is similar to All Trails, but it’s more widely used in Europe than All Trails – or seems to be. This is both good and bad. There are sooooo many trails that have been uploaded by so many people, it’s difficult to filter just what you need. You can download routes to your phone and watch if you want to do that. But for routing, I like to put my devices on mute and route by the yellow arrows. While I like tech, I’m working on being present more…
Camino Specific Apps
Gronze.com is a Spanish Language site that has detailed information on most Camino routes including albergues, places to eat and get supplies, history, route steps and information, attractions, etc. It seems endless the amount of information they have. Very useful. My main gripe about Gronze.com is that it’s not an app. You have to have internet access and it can be hard/slow to navigate on a small screen. But the amount of information available is probably the best of the apps I’ve been exposed to.
Wise Pilgrim
Wise Pilgrim Apps (one for each route). This is a great set of tools. They offer much of the same information as Gronze.com, but it’s in an app, offline, and in English. It’s quick to navigate and they have done a really good job at improving it over the years.
These tools provide trail profiles, details about which trails and services are open/closed, and they also provide a forum where users can post updates which WP can incorporate into their database.
Transportation
Don’t forget transportation and how to get around. Google Maps is a good starting place, but I quickly found that it was inaccurate and incomplete. I have yet to find a complete tool that encompasses most forms of transportation in Spain. I have, however, downloaded BlaBlaCar -again-. In 2015, I took a ride share from Madrid to Pamplona and it cost me something like €12. A bus ride from Bilbao to Bayona, Fr, on Google Maps was going to take 4-6 hours and cost €40. On Uber it was going to be something like €350. On BlaBlaCar, it cost €5.99 and will take 2hr 20min on a bus. There are other transport apps like RENFE (train), Alsa (bus), etc, but those are sometimes hard to navigate if you don’t know the exact stations you need to be at/go to.
Caveat
You always have to have a caveat as there are those people who like to argue and insert their toxicity behind the anonymity of the internet. These are only some of the tools I have used, and the ones I am taking on my trip this year. If I find others, I will look at them. Tools that I have used in previous years are no longer on my phone as I found these work better for me. Make your Camino your own, find the tools that work best for you.
Pizote Adventures 