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We left Caldas de Reis under a light drizzle—not quite rain, but the kind that sneaks up on you. Had it lingered, we’d have been as soaked as if it had poured all day. Luckily, it fizzled out before drenching us. The path out of town crossed a river and passed by public hot springs and fountains, places where people once gathered to bathe in days gone by. The town’s name, Caldas de Reis, roughly translates to “Hot Springs of the Kings,” a nod to the royalty who once flocked here for a bit of thermal relaxation.
As we left the town behind, the Camino treated us to peaceful country dirt roads and mountain trails—a welcome break after over 500 kilometers of asphalt since Lisbon. These are my favorite parts of the Camino: forested paths, quiet mountain trails, and a chance to truly connect with the journey. Though the trail was still busy with other pilgrims, we were lucky to enjoy stretches of solitude. For brief, blissful moments, there wasn’t another soul in sight or earshot—just us and the serenity of nature.
On the way to Padrón, we stopped at a café to rest, and there he was—an elderly gentleman with a twinkle in his eye, selling Camino shell pendants. He had the gift of the gab, charming a crowd of women as he extolled the virtues of his pendants. In the half-hour I sat watching, he sold at least 20 or 30 of them. Naturally, I couldn’t resist—I bought two!
With tomorrow being our last day on the Camino proper, we decided to get an early celebration in. We splurged on dinner at a fancy parilla-style restaurant. It wasn’t a full-fledged fine dining spot, but it ticked all the boxes for hunger and celebration. The food was satisfying, and the occasion felt just right.
As we approached Padrón, memories from my last visit here nine years ago in 2017 began flooding back—where I stayed, where I ate, and the people I was with. The sights brought back a mix of joy and melancholy, a bittersweet reminder of how time reshapes the familiar. These reflections added a nostalgic layer to the day, making it all the more meaningful.
Tomorrow, the final stretch awaits. Santiago is almost within reach.














I wondered what happened to these updates. They seemed to stop about a month ago. I was concerned.
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Contemplating the Camino. I had most of it written down just hadn’t finalized things.
still have a couple more.
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