Rim woes, zipties, and rebuilds…

When we left off, I was holding a cider and squinting at something shiny on my back wheel.

It was a crack. I put the cider down and looked closer. Then I found another one. And another. By the time I had gone all the way around, I had counted ten. Ten spokes slowly pulling their way out of the rim, each one with its own little crack.

The rim was destroyed. Not “keep an eye on it” destroyed. Done.

My guess is the spokes were too tight from the factory. After Argentina the bike mostly sat for five years, and the cracks sat with it, waiting patiently for me to pour a cider and notice.

A word about Guille

My first instinct was to hand the whole mess to a bike shop and write a check. Then I talked to Guille.

Some history. On day one of our Argentina ride, I was sitting in the heat with a liter of beer when my phone buzzed. It was Guille: “My rim broke, can you meet us here?” A third of his spokes had torn clean out of the metal. We spent four hours at a gas station with our thumbs out.

So naturally, the man with the exploded rim is the one who convinced me to build my own wheels. And naturally, I listened.

While I’m in there

The only things I kept were the hubs. New rims, new spokes, new everything else, front and rear. The front rim hadn’t cracked, but it was the same age and had lived the same life, and I wasn’t going to wait for it to tell me.

Then came the most expensive phrase in any garage: might as well. The rear wheel was already in pieces, so I might as well replace the brake rotors. And the cassette. The old ones would probably have lasted. Now I know they will.

Final tally: the wheels cost double what the cockpit did. The thrifty plan is not going well.

Tools? Who needs tools?

Wheel builders use a truing stand, a precise and costly piece of equipment that tells you exactly where your wheel wobbles.

I used zip ties.

Put the wheel in the bike, strap a zip tie to the frame on each side, snip the ends so they just miss the rim, and spin. Where the rim touches a zip tie, that’s your wobble. Tighten a spoke, spin again. It works. It works well enough that I was a little smug about it.

And now, sheepishly: I did buy a few things. A bike stand, so the whole bike could hang at eye level while I worked. And a spoke tension meter, because if too-tight spokes killed the last rim, I wanted a number this time and not a feeling.

But the truing stand, the precise and costly one? Never bought it. The bike went up on the stand, the zip ties went on the frame, and two bits of plastic that cost less than a cent each did the job. I have stopped trying to explain this to people.

Like butter

You are supposed to oil the spokes and nipples before you put a wheel together. On the rear wheel I did exactly that, and it went together like butter.

On the front wheel, I did not.

I also had a cheap spoke tool. Dry threads plus a cheap tool is how you round the corners off brass nipples, one after another, each time thinking the next one will be different. It was not. I tore the whole wheel back down and replaced half of them.

Then I bought a better tool. I oiled the spokes and the nipples. Went together like butter.

Some lessons you pay for twice.

The tire problem

Both rims are now taped for tubeless tires. Which brings me to my wheel size: 650b x 47 mm.

Finding that tire in the US has become close to impossible. Everyone has moved to 700. Shops look at you like you asked for a typewriter ribbon. And 650b is… sigh.

Yes, I could have gone to 700 while I was rebuilding everything anyway. They would probably fit the fork. I never measured. They would not fit under my splash guards, and I am riding through Norway. The splash guards stay.

So I searched. And searched. And found three Teravail Washburns.

Yes, three. I am aware that “bi” means two. The third one is the spare.

I don’t expect to need it. 650b is still popular in Europe, so finding a tire over there should be easier than here. Which is exactly the kind of sentence Murphy’s Law was written for. If a tire is going to gash open, it will do it on a Sunday, in the rain, 40 km from a shop that closed on Saturday. So the spare comes along.

They are the “Durable” version, with a tougher sidewall. Better for touring. Heavier, but… durable. Fewer gashed sidewalls on the side of the road, which is a trade I will take every time.

Where things stand

Both wheels are built. They are round, they are true, and I made them, which still surprises me. Now I am just waiting on the tires.

Next time: the finished bike, all of it, settled.

What changed

  1. Rims: Velocity Cliffhanger, front and rear
  2. Spokes and nipples: DT Swiss, brass nipples
  3. Hubs: kept
  4. Brake rotors and cassette: new
  5. Tires: Teravail Washburn, Durable, 650b x 47, tubeless. Two on the bike, one spare.

A new adventure: the EuroVelo 3

Six years ago I rolled into Buenos Aires, wrote that I had been bitten by the cycling bug, and said the next ride might happen in 2021. It is now 2026. The bug, it turns out, has a long incubation period.

That ride was January 2020. Iguazú Falls to Buenos Aires, just under 1400 km, with my friend and brother Guille and his dog Rocco. Before it, I hadn’t owned a bike, or even ridden one, in more than 15 years. So my OCD monkey mind went to work. I researched every option and settled on the Kona Rove ST. A fine gravel bike. I really had no idea what I was doing.

I trained at home: 50 km four times a week, with one ride stretching longer each week until I hit 100 km, all in a civilized 15°C to 23°C. Argentina answered with 41°C and 30 kg of gear.

I came home knowing what I liked and didn’t like about that specific trip. Too fast, too hot, no time to stop and look at anything. The next one would be slower. Kinder to the body, and to the soul, weather-wise.

I also wrote that the next one would be about 1850 miles. Hold that thought.

The next one was going to be the Danube. EuroVelo 6, from the headwaters in Germany to the Black Sea, June 2026. I had maps. I had a plan. Guille and I have a running joke that the best plan is to not have a plan. The Danube agreed with us.

Enter the Norwegians.

Torger and Håkon are father and son. I met them last year on the Camino Primitivo, and they are the ones who invited me to the lunch where a waitress baptized me in Estrella Galicia. Håkon is the reason I am back in school studying philosophy. He is well read, and he has a habit of asking the one question that takes apart whatever I just said. Over the past year they have invited me to hike in Norway and to join them for a couple of weeks on the Camino Francés. School and work said no each time.

When I told them about the Danube, they asked if I had looked at the EuroVelo 3. They wanted to ride that one some day.

So I looked. The EV3 is called the Pilgrims Route. It starts at Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway, and it ends in Santiago de Compostela. I have been to Spain and Portugal eight times and walked into Santiago on seven of them. Riding there from a cathedral in Norway? That is the perfect pilgrimage for me.

The numbers are a little less romantic. About 5,650 km, from 63° latitude north down to 43°. That is roughly 3,500 miles, for anyone still holding the 1850 thought. I was off by a bit. Roughly three months, starting in Trondheim in June 2027.

Then there is the climbing. Around 40,000 meters of it, which is Everest four and a half times, on a loaded bike. On the Primitivo last year the group used me as their guide, and I had one description for whatever was coming, dead flat or mountain pass: rolling hills. Norway has rolling hills at the start. Spain has them at the finish, and Spain’s are steeper per kilometer than Norway’s.

Rolling hills indeed…

As it stands, Torger and Håkon will probably not be able to join me. I still have hopes. If it ends up a solo trip, so be it. On foot I like walking alone for two or three weeks, and after that I want company. A bike will be different. I don’t know how yet.

Three months also bumps right up against the 90 days a visitor gets in the Schengen area. I will need to get creative, and France may be part of the answer. Homework pending.

And yes, I will walk in Spain again. I am positive of it.

The bike is the same one that crossed Argentina. Mostly. Six years gave me plenty of time to think about what I didn’t like about it, and all of it was in the cockpit: the handlebars, the controls, everything my hands and eyes deal with all day. Figuring out what to change took a while. Then I changed it. That story is next.

Now it’s time for a plan without a plan…